455 build quote/next steps/advice

ok, for starters here are 2 links to what to what I have in a previous threads. please remember its a street car and weekend cruiser. And I am thousands over budget on this motor already haha.

https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/72-455-build-compatibility-and-clearances.392011/

https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...r-intake-72-heads-and-what-valley-pan.392230/

The below and attachment specs are what came in from Machine Shop. He said crank seems fine to just polish and to grind the crank it would be an additional $250 to go .020. He won't know exact clearances until he mocks up the engine. Based on the below, should we just order the .010 bearings? or what it your recommendation for best oil pressure?

I was going to order the pistons from TA but their forged pistons were out of stock last time I checked so was going to order their cast pistons, but are they really any better any better than the Silvo-lite ones from Summit?

If I order pistons from TA, I assume my old pistons were 8.5.1. TA has the option of 10.1 or 8.5.1, could I order the 10.1 or is that too much for my set up?
And I assume notches aren't needed?

Lastly, I can use the valley pan gasket only on this mild build like or it is better recommended to use the2 piece gaskets and trim the valley pan as in the last picture.

Thanks

Currently your crankshaft is already ground .010 on rods and mains and is at a mid to low limit for that size on both. I would expect your Oil Clearance to be in the Low to mid range per the sheet below. But until we actually mock the assembly this is only an educated guess.

Bearings:

Rod Bearings – Will need .010 in current grind configuration P/N CB-762P-10 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb762p10

Main Bearings – Will need .010 in current grind configuration P/N MS-908P-10 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms908p10

Pistons and Rings:

Piston Kit – Will need .040 Over to clean cylinders P/N 1730H.040 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-1730h-040/make/buick

Ring Kit – 1.00mm over 645040 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsn-645040

 

I would by from TA for the simple reason is that they support us. Without TA none of us guys would have the stuff we need to do what we love. It may cost a few $ more but worth it to me

 

I bought TA's 10:1 pistons to use with their 284-88H which has about the same lift as the 212. Notches were not required and they shouldn't be too much for your setup.

You can use only the stock intake gasket. Composites are only required for aluminum heads.

 

When you order from TA, you know 100% what you’re getting is right and superior quality, and Mike will help you choose anything for your engine to get the performance you’re looking for.

Buying Buick parts from Summit or Jeggs is a roll of the dice.

 

B4 you cut the crank make sure .020 bearings are available......sometimes bearings are hard to get for our motors

 

Disclaimer: I'm not a pro by any stretch. Everything I write is what has worked for me.

First, if you are going to bore, it see if you can clean up at .038 to get a 4.350 bore. Piston choices are a lot more plentiful. Check with Jim Weise here (or at TriSheild Performance) or TA Performance to see if those are an option. You can use the thinner rings as well. It might be in your price range for better options.

Second, .010 off the block and heads will likely not cause issues with the pushrods. The hydraulic lifters have way more than that travel internally. You'll run into issues with head/intake alignment first and a total of .020 is not there.

Also, I doubt your pistons are near the deck at TDC even after taking .010 off. I took .020 off my 350 block and pistons were still .030 in the hole at TDC. A buddy's 455 that we swapped heads on was factory rated 8.5:1 but measured .042 in the hole and had a calculated CR of 8.4 after installing milled Stage 1 heads. Don't get hung up on advertised compression ratio. It's mostly marketing or best-case scenario with a blueprinted setup.

For a decent street cruiser and occasional blast down the road or track, you want your clearances on the tighter side. My rods are .0015 and my mains are .002-ish, maybe smidge tighter but not .0015. I run 5W30 oil with 15-20 PSI hot idle and 60-70 above 3000 RPM using the Stage 1 spring. Your clearances that are currently showing at .0008 are a little snug for my preferences.

For the valley pan, you can use a factory style with iron heads and an aluminum intake. Heck, if they aren't beat up or bent, I've reused them in a pinch.

 

I have a new valley pan from TA.

 

With going .040" over I would do almost a half fill on the block .

This will keep at bay any scoring of the bottom of the Bore and or the pistion skirts that I have seen at times.

It also helps to provide better ring seal and even lower coolant temps.

 

There are no 40 over pistons besides cast - hyper and custom.....there are 38 over in forged shelf stocked....absolutely no need for a fill on anything under 600hp

 

For a 5500rpm cruiser....the silvolites would be fine.....but when building a shortblock use the best your budget and availability will allow....for future upgrades..but if you just need it to run and cruise and jabe no plans of more rpm or making over 425hp....I would use the coffecan silvolites

 

Thanks all. So you would say I'm fine with just a crank polish based on the specs and tolerances in the pic?

And if I go with TA pistons, what about the 10.1 or 8.5.1? I know it's just on paper would would I really see a difference and/or can my set up handle it?

 

Use 10:1 because using a stock head gasket of say .040 will only net you a real world mid 9:1 depending on head CC’s and other factors.

 

My 455 block was decked and the pistons were still .030+ down in the cylinders. With advertised 10:1 forged (23cc dish) Sealed Power pistons, .040 head gasket and 69cc Edelbrock heads, it still calculated out to 9.66:1 compression ratio. So, if you don't deck it quite a bit and shave the heads as much, you will be just over 9:1 compression ratio and can run on cheap gas if you aren't too aggressive with the timing.

 

Which is exactly where you want to be mid 9s...a small cam with little overlap and 10 to1 compression with iron heads will rattle its self to death on 93.....shoot for 9.0 to 9.5 to 1 to use 93 or even 89 and it not ping on a hot summer day

 

So. .010 off stock 72 heads and also .010 off block. TA 212 cam and .040 over TA 10.1 cast pistons should give me in the low 9"s" .1? And be able to run on 89 or 93 pump gas?

 

Yes

 

It's basically a stock rebuild treat it as such...no need for ALL the oil mods just use the TA grooved bearings.....5/8pickup and continue with life

 

Perfect thanks!

 

https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/calculator

SCR: 9.69:1
DCR: 7.98:1

Assumptions:
0.04" overbore
0.03" piston to deck clearance
70 cc combustion chamber
4.385 gasket bore (felpro 1125)
0.041 gasket thickness (felpro 1125)
22 cc piston dish volume
4° advance install of TA 212 cam

 

Thanks all. I ordered TA's .040 cast pistons 10.1, their 1.00 mm Molly rings, their .010 main and rod bearings. He'll polish the crank and we'll send it. Update all in a couple months when done.