Looks like I may have to go .060 over on a MW code block. Has anyone gone that big? Who has an affordable good cast piston for street use. The machinist says my .040 bores are .004 to .006 over. I will have to break the glaze before new rings are installed and may put me at the max allowable. I need some guidance here. Any and all advice will be appreciated. Lou
Egge has them. I paid around $200 for mine. I don't know about going .060, what are you at now?:bglasses:
Hi Joe, I am at .040 now. I have one bore with a sleeve in it already. Man for a simple cam swap this sure has turned into a horror show. What size slugs did you go to? Lou
My new motor is at .020. I traded my old block and heads for other parts I needed....(it was already at .030 and worn way over. I'm talking .015 skirt clearance.....060 was the only choice.) You may want to check your lifter bores, 2 of mine were worn out, that's what made me decide to get rid of it. You might be better off getting a 401 block and boring it oversize, but I don't know anyone who has done that. I'm sure you know when cylinder walls get thin, you can have overheating problems.......kinda like thin brake rotors that no way to absorb heat. I wouldn't want to find that out after the fact. Anytime I took a motor apart and only did half the job, I was always sorry. You should consider a complete rebuild. :bglasses:
I gotta go get this block back and remeasure myself again. I dial-bored this block when I pulled it and came up with the largest bore @ 4.354 and all of them with less than .001 taper. Hell you could still see the hone marks. What are the lifter bores supposed to be and how much tolerence is allowed? As far as a complete rebuild, I'm already there. All this for a motor with 165-170 compression and 40-25 oil pressure. Plus finding a good core up here is out of the question. When will I learn to leave well enough alone!!! Lou
Lou, Are You in a hurry to finish the car? I have 4 1966 rivs but I havent been able to examine them so I can part them out yet. Also the biggest problem would be getting the parts to You from tenn. I have a friend in the trucking business but I dont know if he still runs into Your area. doc
Doc, thanx for the thought and definately look into it as I may just slap this thing together for now and do it right when I hit the lottery. Let me know what you got. Thanx, Lou
Rumor has it that .060 on a 425 is asking for trouble............heating being the main culprit. Also core shift starts to become an issue . Mike
You know Mike, I had that feeling when I looked at the cylinder skirts. If they are any indication of what it looks like in the water jacket for thickness "YIKES". I am kinda surprised that I have not had many bites on this topic. I guess the 425 is a throw-away after 20 over. Thanx for your help, Lou
Yea, no doubt it is cheaper than shipping. We are good machine shop poor up here. I was just being down in the mouth with the throw away talk. I will fix this block some way. I was interested in the stroking thread using the 364 rods. I may end up diving into this thing whole hog. Who knows? Thanx for the reply, Lou
I was exactly where you are at 1-1/2 years ago. My old block was at .030 already and two lifter bores were wiped out. I thought of .060 over and stroking it, but with the fear of thin cylinder walls and the expense of sleeving the lifter bores I was afraid to take a chance. One person told me I could oversize the lifter bores and use Furd lifters, that was my final straw, I just got a new block. If you are CERTAIN your lifter bores are good, than sleeving your cylinders is an option.:bglasses:
