Too the riving into the shop yesterday, which in itself was an ordeal. My mechanic called and said water is running throfh the engine and out onto the ground (with drown plug out) almost as fad as he can pour. They think it is mist likely a cracked block, and I'm really hoping for some better news. Car started when I first git it.a few.months ago but has not been more than 50 ft when there was a opp and smoke.out if the passanger side exhaust. Has a new head gasket, but was put on with anti seize not thread sealer, could thus be it? Any help appriciated, id hate to have ti scrap the ole gal
If the head gasket was just done, Id bet that is where the problem is. Unless of course the car/motor was bought with a blown head gasket and the engine was already toast.
What were the other symptoms??? was the ''pop'' out of the intake or the exhaust...?? was there a ''miss''???? First,, before you do anything else,, run a good compression test,,,, if you have 2 cyls side by side that have low numbers, it is most likely a popped head gasket.... if the numbers are good,,, and close to even, then you may be looking at a cracked block.... is there water in any one cyl.???? test further and get back to us.....dont just take a mechanics word about it....when you rotate the engine with the plugs out , using the starter does it make any noises that it should not... if there is water in one cyl,, does that cyl. have any compression at all....???? I have saved several engines that had catastrophic piston failures and knocked holes in the cyl wall , by sleeving the affected cyl... so the engine may not be a total loss.....
Pop was from the exhaust, bit of white smoke. Car was test run afterva new head gasket was put on just long enough to see water spitting from the crank area. Ran well, no knocks a little carb work needed. Trying not to gut the engine, id have to scrap the car to afford to fix the engine type deal. Possible water is leaking down an unsealed head bolt?
Or is it probably bottom end? The way he said the water was leaking throught probably a big hole, engineer wasn't run or franked for any of this but it still ran out out, bout a cup on the floor before a gallon made it in
Pull the spark plugs,,, get a rad pressure tester, pump up the system to 13 psi and see where the water is coming from....dont run the engine with water in the oil at all....that damages bearings, lifters ect.....
With the heater hose disconnected and sealed the whole system gave almost no resistance with air blown in. Any oil or.water passages in block that van be fixes easily that may have broke? Car did sit through a few il winters.with.antifreze in it before.I.picked.it up
Do not crank the engine with the spark plugs installed! If a cylinder is full of water, you will have a hydraulic lock and bend a rod or worse. I would pull the plugs, then crank the engine. If water sprays out of a plug hole - that's where the problem is. After trying the above, do what Doc says.
We'll it seems a have a rather large paper weight, what's a good motor candidate for this car? I have two 350s and two 455s or another nailhead?
If your sure you need to replace the Nailhead, replaclacing it with another Nailhead will be the logical solution. The tranny in your car has a specific Nailhead only bolt pattern so you could basically plug and play if the replacement motor is good to go. And dont call the old motor a paperweight just yet. People pay good money for Nailhead parts from the waterneck down to the manifolds.
Not too hard if you where to look and know how to rebuild them correctly or can afford to pay somebody who does. Even harder if you own a fiberglass 32 Ford.
Guess ill wait a few paychecks and call up the boneyards, pity this car needs driving. Thanks for the help guys!
I know *zilch* about Nailheads, but I hadn't seen this mentioned. Since it just had work done to it, any chance the intake gasket wasn't sealed properly letting coolant into the intake? I had accidently once pinched a small wire between the intake and head, didn't even get to the water port, but it was wedged enough that coolant leaked into the #2 cylinder and very quickly filled the crankcase and promptly was leaking out the rear main. I drained the oil/water mix, removed said wire, re-filled with good oil and coolant and drove it for many thousands of miles with out issue.
