401 with weak spark ????

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by leadsled01, Sep 4, 2009.

  1. leadsled01

    leadsled01 Well-Known Member

    My 66 electra has been down for almost a year now. Running good them just quits. No spark, so I do a complete tune up-plugs,points,wires,cap, rotor. Still no spark...I replace the coil ,still no spark. I ran a jumper wire directly to the coil for a full 12volts and still no spark.I tried that handheld ignition start button ,still no spark. Last night I actually held the spark plug wire in my hand and I can feel just alittle bit of spark but not enough to fire a spark plug.Any idea's???? I'm totally lost here.
     
  2. JZRIV

    JZRIV Platinum Level Contributor

    With what you have tried, we can probably assume the ignition components are OK. I know its basic but make sure you have the point gap set exactly to spec at .016. Was the condenser replaced as well?

    I have seen timing chains so loose that when you set the point gap and then start cranking the engine, the slop in the chain throws off your initial setting enough that it won't start. This happens because the nylon teeth on the crank sprocket (assuming its original) degrade and break apart. If yours has been replaced you can rule that out. One method I use to check slop in the chain is by rotating the engine slightly back and forth while watching the rotation of the distributor. When you change direction of rotation on the engine, the distributor should start moving as soon as engine rotation is started in the opposite direction. If you rotate the engine and there is a delay before the distributor starts moving, you have slop in the chain and it could be a cause.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2009
  3. Silver Bullet

    Silver Bullet Well-Known Member

    I'm no expert but there are a few basic things I can suggest you check. You already tried replacing the + charge to the coil, because you don't want to leave the 12V + hooked to the coil for very long check the existing + wire with a test light too see if its good. You need a good + when you check the rest. Check the - signal or ground to the coil. It comes from the points on the distributor. Start with the wiring between the coil and distributor. You can run a new - wire from the points to the coil or try to check the existing one with a test light. If it is good double check the dwell on the points. If thats good. Check for a bad or loose ground from the motor to the chassis or battery. Sounds like a weak or bad connection. Look for corroded or loose ends on the wires. It is possible to get a bad coil but I don't think its very common.

    Hope this helps.
    This may be one for the experts. Good Luck.
     
  4. Silver Bullet

    Silver Bullet Well-Known Member


    Jason, correct me if I'm wrong because I'm still learning this, but if the timing chain slop were the issue in this case wouldn't he still have a strong spark just at the wrong time.
     
  5. leadsled01

    leadsled01 Well-Known Member

    I will recheck tonight.
     
  6. DugsSin

    DugsSin Well-Known Member

    I lean toward a loose/weak ground connection also. Best stop holding that wire or risk becoming a test light :idea2:
     
  7. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    replace the coil with a known good one and see if you have spark... also I once replaced a condenser with a new one and the car would not run,,,, after the best part of a day messing with it , I put the old condenser back in and the thing fired right up.... just some ideas...
     
  8. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Sounds like a bad condensor to me; - just one question; - how did you line up the points? If the points were incorrectly set up, it would cause bad spark. Check the rotor and the cap as well. Is the cap lined up correctly? There is only one way it fits, if you have it mis-aligned it will get weak spark too. This sounds like one of those problems that is simple in nature, not a long term one like a sloppy chain. If the car ran and then just quit, it has to be something with the ignition, and it's probably some stupid 50 cent part that either failed or finished wearing out. Start with the wiring, make sure all connections are solid and the wires aren't grounding out. Set in a new set of points and condensor, following the book on how to set it up. Use a known coil that works, and try and start it. If it runs, check the dwell and adjust accordingly. If it doesn't, open it up and see what the points are doing. make sure they open and close when they're supposed to. Check wiring again, and recheck the condensor to points connections. Then start playing with coils. Make sure the polarity is correct. Make sure it's all properly grounded. If there's still nothing, check the ignition switch, it might have burned up. Check the wiring from the switch to the coil. Make sure it's of the proper grade and resistance rating.

    hope this helps, and good luck!
     
  9. leadsled01

    leadsled01 Well-Known Member

    Wow, I feel so stupid!!! It was a bad condenser... Here I always thought that the condenser was not an important part of the ignition... Thanks for all your help.
     

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