So me and my engine builder found out that a SBC valve spring will fit and we turned down part of the stock retainers to make them work. This saved me over $100 and will work just fine. Single spring with a dampener. My heads will be lightly ported. I have already had the seats cut, valves seated, throated for the larger valves, angle cut valve guides. Guides are damn near perfect for having 110,000 miles. Its a 401 bore .030 over, stock rods, EGGE pistons, Hastings moly rings. Compression was estimated at 9.8 before decking the heads. Fully balanced rotating assembly within 2 gram tolerances. ARP rod bolts and main studs. Standard bearings, Melling Oil pump. T/A oversized S/S vales, Comp Thumpr 279, comp lifters, rebuilt stock rockers from T/A and true Single Roller 9 key way timing chain from T/A. Still more parts to be purchased. Car should be disturbing the neighbors by next summer. :laugh:
back when i was 16 (40 years ago)my cam went out and i had no money installed used z28 springs a buddy had taken off and a set of used pontiac lifters from my bosses 68GTO ,with a junkyard camshaft ...ran better than ever
Talk to Tom Telasco about the valve spring thing....he's talked about this before, but I seem to remember there were some "watchouts"
Its basically the same diameter as a Nailhead spring, we're gonna make sure everything fits properly and clears before full assembly. Also making sure the spring pressure is correct.
be sure that you check for spring ''stack''... because nail head springs are thinner that is why there is 2 of them for each valve.... as they open, the pressures go up rapidly.... Other car makes have thicker springs and can ''stack'' and that really goobers things up.... :Brow:
Gregg Some poeple are running ls1 bee hive springs. I have had them in the car for 5 years. But, If you are trying to save a 100 dollars I understand. Are the chevy springs used? Just reread, Your saveing the cost of new retainers. What kind of springs are they?
I'll know once we find a set that will work for my specs. I'm saving money from buying the T/A springs and new retainers. I'm trying not to spend money unless i want to or have to:laugh:
If you have the Chev spring part numbers, that would help. I'm finding different installed heights for the various years. For my last 401 build, I just bought the stiffer inners from Isky.
With a nailheads low rpm threshold, all I have ever done is use NEW stock springs and a 60 thousanths shim under them.... that combo will go all the way to 6000 rpm..... :Brow: dont need any more,,, and the wear and tear and friction/heat on the cam is minimal.....:idea2::laugh:
Stock springs are designed for stock cams. If you are using a cam with fast open/close ramps more pressure may be required to keep the valve train components in contact during operation. Hi-rpm 'float' is one consideration, valve 'bounce' on closing is another. The cam manufacturer 'should' be able to provide you with the minimum requirements. Coil bind with hi-lift cams should be checked, but I believe the stock springs are good to at least 0.550" Retainer-to-guide clearance should be checked with hi-lift cams too, especially if you are using valve-guide seals on the intakes (Buick did this in 1966 only).
going along the line of different parts... Ford 2.3 litre valves are 11/32" stem and are almost the same length. They can be found with undercut stems also. I found some Manley severe duty valves with undercut stems for a steal on Ebay and only had to have the retainer groove machined closer to the tip as the 2.3 uses a long tip (like .500"). I believe we used Buick V6 retainers and TA nailhead springs, if I recall correctly.
