Should it cost $4000 to... machine a 400 block including bore and modifing the oil system reconditione the rods Put in hardened seats in the heads. new valves New pistons and rings new cam lifters pushrods New gasket set and berings Timing set My estiment is $2000 for machine work. $2000 parts. $850 to assemble. Is this high? Thanks for the help.
Yep parts were about 2500. But I bought that 750 timing cover, rockers were 425, cam, bearings, water pump, etc. 350 for carb rebuild. I bought other stuff to make the motor nice but its mostly stock. But I didnt do anything, He pulled the motor and put it in, and assembled it.
I GUESS I got caught in the WELL IF WERE THIS FAR, WE MINE AS WELL. So I told him anything in question, Just do it. Thus 8000.00
I spent about six grand on my motor, parts machine work and all... I did however get some of my parts FREE, so i'd imagine your 4 grand is a good deal, if everything is done correctly, and the parts arn't cheapo stuff...
Wow guys, I guess its getting more and more expensive for the rookie engine builders or the price shoppers. We have just always had the tools or directly to a machine shop for line bore, cyl bore, balance, decking and stage one heads cut. Whew.
Mine ran around $10,000. But that included me rebuilding motor and tranny with all new parts. Well the pistons and rods didn't get changed and the only machine work I had done was hot tank, install TA good cam bearrings, and he checked the bore to makes sure they were good and a hone job. Well I had someone put in A-frame bushings in front. That was $600. And a hotchkis rear suspension setup. Boy everything adds up. Still have a lot to do to this machine.ou: I even took the time to grind on the valley to clean it up.
I guess it is all according to how much you want to get into it. If you just want an all stocker then maybe that's a ball park figure. What about exhaust? Those 400 exhaust manifolds are extremely restrictive and most of those bolt are going to break off in the heads (just happened to me). You going to keep using that same 38yr old old tranny? Might need a rebuild. While you have the motor out you'll want to degrease and pressure clean everything. Take out the battery tray and grind out all that rust and osfo it, paint it. Change all your hoses. How are those motor mounts? You'll want to re-wrap your wiring harness. How is the radiator? You'll also need a new water pump, thermostat, etc ... Be sure to paint that core support. Might need a new starter while your at it. You going to keep using points? Change out your rotor, cap, points, wires, plugs. There are a crap load of hidden costs but do it right the first time!! I'm going through it now ....ou:
I've got 2000 in labor and about 5000 in parts, putting out about 530 HP. Included in the 5000 was a lucky find of iron 455 stage 1 heads w/ dual springs, ported and polished flowing 279/213.Also included was 650 for wiseco forged slugs, an sp1, and ta's front cover. The 2000 for the block included hot tank, bore and hone, line hone the mains, install the ta bearings, and reduce springs pressure on the heads, as they were set up for roller rockers and I used ta's oem heavy duty. I did all the assembly, so that saved almost 400. Jon
Hey, thats why you learn how to do all this stuff your self...or most of it any way, then the rest can be done with help from friends and clubmembers. The long term effects are wonderfull, we have had one of our cars for almost 20 years, and have done everything but the Conv top and frame, i have learned how to rebuild motors, weild "kinda", recover seats, and the confidence to try anything with my Buicks including, beg, borrow and barter. So dont look at only the money, and the time, go for the long term effect of the hobby. Your car is never done....Enjoy!! Happy hobbying!!
i think i had 3500ish bill from the machine shop. They tanked, magged, align honed, punched the bores .038 over, arp rod hardware, shot peened the rods and conditioned them (I polished them) just a clean-up to the deck, removed casting flash from the block, turned the crank down .010, and balanced the assembly. they supplied wiesco pistons and rings, freeze plugs and lower bearings. they also mag'ed the heads but found out they were bad. and i went on my own to get new ones. (i supplied cam bearings that they installed) and i did the assembly. -nate
well, I spent almost 6 grand for a mild AM&P 455 with all the needed oiling mods, comp cams cam, fully balanced and blueprinted, ported timing cover, Stage 1 heads, shipping and handling, and AM&P supplied the longblock. I had to supply a carb, distributor, and intake. She makes 423 HP and 530 FT/LBS.
you might be able to save a few bucks by droping the hardened valve seats unless your valves are sunken you might not really need them but most shops like to sell them for some reason i dont have hardened seats in my 65 special,my 67 430 skylark or my 72 455 regal and all run unleaded fuels and the 65 has never been rebuilt the 455 regal has been together for 15 years but the 430 is a recent rebuild due to a spun rod bearing then sitting for 11 years
if you your going to pay that for a stock rebuild check parts for sale you may be interested in my motor for sale i'm sure you wont be disappointed its under 455 street strip http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=136375&highlight=455+street+strip ok jus seen gsmuscle had link up already thanks for the help
Hardened Valve seat are not needed due to the high nickel content in Buick heads. You can save a lot of money by assembling the motor yourself.
I also have a 1968 400 in good condition(low miles) if you need it. I would take $650.00 for all of it.(I think that is a good price) It would just need to be cleaned up and reassembled. Just a hone and polish on the crank and it should be good to go. Car had 30,000 original mile when it hit a pole. I have the block(Crank still in it, rods and pistons(marked), and the heads, intake, and rockers. I think I even have oil pan, valve covers, distributer, ect.
