...my 68 M-20 has threaded studs coming out of the side cover to mount likage levers onto that operate the shift forks inside the trans. The 70 uses studs that thread into the trany; only really a problem on the 3rd gear lever as the reverse lockout linkage utilize a longer stud. I attached a pic of a correct 70 from the u shift em forum.
I got my butt kicked today. I have been fighting clutch z-bar / fork geometry. I decided to remove the Lakewood bell housing set up which entails complete dissasebly of the clutch and removal of fly wheel to get the block plate off, and installed the stock bellhousing, reinstalled the flywheel and clutch to see if there was a issue with the Lakewood, but it is still f'd up. I am at a loss on this. It seems like the z bar is too shorto No: The tranny parts for the linkage lever swap did not show up today for some reason,so I decided to install trans and hope to swap the shift fork inserts in place. It looks possible but not fun. I think I will wait to re-install the trans again until I switch these out on the bench as the trans would not go in either and has to come out anyway. Trans is not going home, perhaps a pilot bushing issue, but not sure as alignment tool goes homeo No: I will pull trans back out and do some investigation. Enough for this weekend.
Hey Mark..I rec'd your call yesterday but I got tied up and forgot to call you back, SORRY. Reading your post...is it possible you COULD HAVE a 350 "Z" bar? instead of a 455 "Z" bar? OR the "clutch fork push-rod" maybe the wrong one too!?!? ...and also, experience tells me that you really need to lower the back of the engine "quite a bit" to allow up-&-down "wiggle and alignment" of the tranny pilot shaft when installing it... the tailshaft end of the tranny seems to NEED TO go higher than you think to make it slide in. Been there a few times and thats what I've found works. If you need to ..call me later this morning..I'll be running around doin saturday chores and I'll have my phone! :beers2: Wheelz, Tampa Bay
I am thinking the clutch rod / fork geometry is wrong due to the deep throwout bearing that came with the clutcho No:
Mark wheelz is right. My exp. has been that every time I try to use the roller pilot bushing I just fight it. So i just buy the bronze one & it fit's every time! Just my experiance. :TU:
Sorry Mark in one of your pic's I thought it was the pilot bushingou: It will go in it's just that when your lifting it you have to get it just right. I layed under the tran's & just lifted it till it slipped right in. Kind of precision you know. Wish I was there to help:Brow:
not much progress expected AGAIN this weekend on the stick job,:rant: the parts for the tranny failed to show up again :af: The pilot bushing is now correct ID". I fabbed up a couple speedo cable clips:boring: Maybe next weekend :3gears:
Hi Dennis, I wish I had, but no, not for these parts as I already had someone sending me the parts and it is taking longer than need be...I will for anything else I need though:TU:
I plan to rest and hang with the family today (Sunday), so this is this weekend's progress report- for those who care: FRIDAY- played hookey again. I finally got the shift shafts to swap in for the 70 linkage set up. Upon doing so, I discovered that the scabby (E-bay) dog who sold me the "rebuilt trans" failed to replace the worn reverse gears :rant: By the looks of the speedo gear, it was ameture hour rebuild. The rest of the trans is fresh. I discovered the gear issue in time Friday to find a new set in Seattle. ($200) and a speedo gear ($40) so I was not dead in the water over the weekend. I outsmarted myself this time- I set the new speedo gear on the hallogen shop light while fussing with the the other gears and it heated up nicely to expand it so I just slid it on by gloved hand over the output shaft :Brow: TIP: Be quick here though to get it to it's correct location because that puppy cooled quick and gripped onto that shaft in seconds. I sand blasted the Lakewood bellhousing and block plate and refinished them, put in storage for now. Power windows are almost in. Pass Driver's door is done and hung. I replaced the hinge bushings :TU: Rear Q's windows are done. Wires are run complete less passenger door, which needs to be removed, holes drilled, etc. SATURDAY: SO, trans is now in good shape now. I fit the linkage and shifter; all good! Reinstalled the clutch and decided to re-assemble the car with the factory style bellhousing just to get the car working correctly. Road trip to painter man's shop about 1 hr away to pick up the fresh body parts. Re-assembled rear spoiler to deck lid, and sport mirrors; hung them and hood. Very nice indeed. Trans is ready to go in now, but out of time for this weekend, kids. See you next weekend where we try to button up the trans swap project, the power windows, and get the interior back together test drive - weather permitting.
Now that picture would bring a tear to a glass eye :beers2: Not a bad day at all. Tranny installed and filled with Redline GL-4, final trim on tunnel hump for shifter fit, all linkage and clutch connected, crossmember and fresh driveline installed, shifter boot and trim ring installed and the carpet kit was fit. I also continued with the power window install and hopefully tomorrow I can have it all back together. It is supposed to continue raining so no test drive tomorrow; plan to adjust clutch, continue power windows and perhaps start the front bench rebuild / recovering project :beers2: Off to dinner with the lovely wife and cocktails!
:3gears: all done. The weather has been sunny and beautiful. Been out test driving, everything seem s ok so far..:3gears:
Time for an update: so far so good. ray: I have put about 100 +/- miles ( 8 +/- hours) on it over the past couple weeks, laid into it plenty, and everything seems ok thus far. I have stayed on the Island pretty much and only strayed off once about 10 miles from home. Its a blast to drive! The car definitely is not as smooth as the hydro-matic, but definitely is a kick in the pants to drive :3gears: For the most part, it shifts smoothly, but I still do not think everything is 100% perfect in the bell crank / clutch-rod geometry department. I slotted the frame bracket a little bit to allow it to line up better which helped tremendously. I don't think there is an issue with motor mounts so I have not replaced them yet. Last weekend I swapped back to the factory Ralleys with the 245/60/15 because I just do not like the look of anything but a factory Ralleys. Needless to say, looks sharp, but not enough tire, and too hard of a compound. It will wheel hop now, but, I have not yet installed the trailing arm frame braces. This weekend will allow for plenty more test time.
What a great week with the weather in the 80's. I took the beast to work Wednesday and Thursday to give it some road rash in the big city and all went great. I put new hides on today so traction is now somewhat attainable in second and third if I don't mash it and it just loves shifting as it bounces off the rev limiter set at 6K rpm. What a ride.
Mark, How is the car doing now? Can you tell me about the results of the dynomat install and if it really helped out much? Did you install any of the sound blocker?
