4-speed behind 401 Nailhead - revisited

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by southfork, Jan 28, 2004.

  1. southfork

    southfork Active Member

    My 63 nailhead engine came with a Dynaflow, which crapped out. I have found an original mid-60s Buick nailhead 4-speed transmission bellhousing and flywheel, but don't have a pressure plate or clutch disk. My question is, what clutch/pressure plate do I need to find? Will Chevy parts work? Hope there are easier to find parts that work, not just Buick.

    Also, do i need to buy a bushing or bearing or something for the back of the '63 crank for the nose of the input shaft to go into?

    Any smart Nailhead guys want to help me here? I'm kinda new to Nailheads, but i really dig 'em!
     
  2. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    I'll check mine in the garage in the morning

    I have my 66 GS with 4 sp apart in the garage. Kind of cold outside right now - neg 25 f here in Minnesota!

    I'll see if I can find the part numbers for the new set up I got in 2001.

    kg:grin:
     
  3. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    Centerforce Pressure Plate

    I a Centerforce "Valeo" 11" pressure plate. On one of the fingers is stamped TKY70.

    No # on clutch plate - I purchased as a set

    I dont recall a bearing for the pilot shaft. I took the engine in aleady so I can't see if it was hanging onto the crank.

    This set up works great.

    Makes for wild sideways smoky burnouts!

    kg
     
  4. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    There is a pilot bushing needed, contact Carmen Faso
    716-693-4090. He's an expert on nailhead stuff. I have to call him now for a NOS throwout bearing.
    Cheers
     
  5. southfork

    southfork Active Member

    Thanks, SkylarkNut and SpecialWagon65. Don't I know about the cold winters up Minnesota way. I grew up in North Dakota, and it's about the same there 'cept every other guy isn't named Ole.
     
  6. tmcclu

    tmcclu Well-Known Member

    Southfork,
    Sounds like you already have the really hard to get parts, but one caution that I have heard is that the 63 crankshaft has a flange on it that has to be machined down for a later flywheel to fit, so I would check that out as well. I have never talked to Carmen, but it sounds like he really knows what he is doing. Good luck with the swap, and don't forget stuff like clutch linkage, shifters, transmission, cross member and possible drive shaft mods too! HTH Tim McCluskey
     
  7. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Southfork,
    Here are a few snippets I've collected on the subject. Just to give you a few leads...

    The pressure plate is a standard GM 11" unit but the disc is
    nailhead only, it has an inverted hub(the
    snout/splined hub sticks out away from the flywheel
    more than other GM engines)---Russ

    I have the Hayes street/strip disc with their street strip Borg and Beck pressure plate. It has three roller assist. I hear they hold well, but take quit a bit of leg to operate.
    -Cheryl

    The clutch and pressure plate I have that was recommended to me is brand named "LuK Repset" on the box. It's part number 04-049 and the manufacturer, or marketer is listed as Automotive Systems, Inc.
    I have no experience with this clutch, but I have seen several of the same brand used on the street with no problems. The goal with this, as I stated above, is a setup that can be street driven regularly, is heavy-duty enough, and doesn't require unreasonable leg effort.
    -Mark
     
  8. southfork

    southfork Active Member

    Thanks, Tim and Walt. I'll be sure to check the flange on the crankshaft to see if it must be machined down. Probably the flywheel will not match the crank in that respect, but maybe I'll get lucky. If '63 '401 nailhead wasn't a good running engine, I could put in a '64 or later 401 crank to eliminate any mis-match of the flange with the flywheel, and any problems with the bearing for the trans input shaft snout.

    I wonder why the clutch disk was made different than other GM? Pretty sure that the chevy clutch disks won't work though, huh? Well, as long as the right disks are available, no big deal.

    I wonder what the local Buick dealer's parts guy would say if I walked in, sat at the counter and ordered a clutch disk for a 63 - 66 Buick? Probably tell me there was no such thing.. Hah!
     
  9. tmcclu

    tmcclu Well-Known Member

    :) Southfork,
    What I found out is that the bolt pattern for the flywheel is the same, 63 to 64-66, just the mounting flange is different. I don't know what the procedure to remove/resize the flange is, but the crank may have to be removed from the engine to do it properly. The thought of going to the Buick dealer is not all that far fetched, depending on the part you are looking for, they may still have a listing for some part numbers, but clutch parts are unlikely. I have used LUK clutches in the past with no problems at all. I have a 63 Riv that I decided to order an overhaul gasket set from a Car Quest, and it will be at the store on Monday! I always try my local parts suppliers before I shop around on the web! Saves a lot of hassle if you can source the stuff locally! Take Care, Tim
     
  10. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    Clutch Assembly Diagram?

    Does anyone have a detailed Buick diagram on all of this? With part numbers would be great!

    Someone fill me in on this bushing. Maybe mine is still on the crank at the machine shop?
     
  11. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    63 adapter

    Carmen Faso sells an adapter for a 63 (dynaflow) engine that will accept the Pilot bushing so a 4-speed can be used. The adapter without the pilot bushing will let a later ST400 Nailhead transmission torque convertor bolt up. See phone # above!

    Skylarknut, yours is probably still on the crank. What engine are you working on?

    The big cars have a different flywheel than the GS cars. Carmen may be able to offer the big car flywheel in the future if someone lets him model one....(me maybe!)
     
  12. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    1965 GS 401 in 66 GS

    Ted

    The motor is a 1965 GS code LT engine.

    The car came with it, well used. The seller also tossed in another engine in that is broken down in parts. That one is also a LT code. That one was from any automatic. Would the crank be the same?

    I've been told these are GS engines for my skylark, be it a year older. Both are green/blue in color. I will have the one to be rebuilt red.

    The extra engine has a dual plane cast iron manifold with numbers 1363782. Other side says E 25. It has a Carter AFB bolted on loose. Is this the correct manifold for a Carter? How can I identify the prized Qjet manifold?
     
  13. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    LT

    LT code was the standard engine for 65 full size cars.
    LR code would be the correct code for the 65 GS.
    The cranks are the same for all '65's, the manual ones just have a bushing pressed into the back.
    There was a fellow here in Cincinnati that had a MR code (=66 GS !) engine for sale with the engine work done and new pistons, bare heads, looked really like a good deal for $500. A good set of pistons may be 300, plus all the engine work.
    The LT engines should work fine. Visually the only difference would be the lifting rings cast into the water manifold crosover and the back of the block.
    Let me know if you are interested in the MR engine. I'll see if the guy still has it.

    THe Q-Jet is easily ID'd by the hole sizes under the carb. Carter/squarebore manifolds all 4 holes are the same, Q-jet the rears are HUGE, fronts smaller and spread apart.
     
  14. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    Q-Jet picture

    See picture!
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2007
  15. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    All four holes the same

    Ted

    Thanks for the info.

    All four holes on the manifold at the machine shop were the same and kind of small! I now wonder what kind of carb I have. I says Rochester 4Jet on the side and has some sort of base plate about 1" thick. No tag or numbers on it. Is this the Rochester 4GC carb? It worked fine for crusing. But when I floored the old girl, she ran out of energy quick! I never tuned the car - same set of plugs, points, wires as when I bought it. I blamed the lack of high end go on this lack of tune. Maybe intake and carb have to go.

    I just ran out to garage and looked at the old Rochester. Primaries ar 1 1/2 in diameter and Secondaries ar 1 11/16 in diameter. So what is it and is it worth rebuilding.

    I checked on the engine builder today. They had it apart and cleaned up. I had them check the crank and they said it had a bushing in it. Too late to turn back on this engine. I think it will work out fine. Gene Pearson of Performance Concepts is the builder. He had a new 65 1/2 GS back in 1965 and still has a 425 with DQ in a 50 Ford drag car. They think finding a DQ manifold set up would be the way to go. Not alot of old timers around who work on Nailheads.

    From watching ebay, a complete setup is over $1,000. Maybe $1,500 ready to go with air cleaner.

    For now, I'll put my $ in the block and heads!

    Kevin:Do No:
     
  16. SpecialWagon65

    SpecialWagon65 Ted Nagel

    Thats the Rochester "square bore" Thats all I know about it! I have 1 car that has is and it runs pretty well, in fact it is suprisingly strong for not having any tune up or anything. I like th Carter carbs better with that manifold you have. Basically the same size as the one you have, just better to work on because they are familiar. Also very similar to an Edelbrock.
    Have you done any work on the heads yet? I sound like a broken record an this stuff, but Carmen Faso does the heads with 1.94" valves and a little bowl work, I think this is the best thing to get done to your engine!! I have 2 sets of his heads, the work is superior and the one runs great! He also is good at recomending cams. 716-693-4090. I'm not even getting a kickback. I think he charges me more.
     
  17. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    Heads

    Ted

    I'm not sure where Gene is on the heads. He had just cleaned them up as far as I know on Friday when I stopped in to check on the progress. No plans to get radical on them - keeping the project on a budget. It's not hard to spend a pile of cash on these nailheads. It is easy to see why they are often replaced with newer Buick or Chevy crate motors.

    I'm sure Gene could push it to the limit if I agreed to pay for it. He was referred to me by the guy who runs the storage shed I use - Pat Herald - who is a big bucks racer running some class around 200mph - yes 200. My whole car cost less then one of the clutch and pressure plates he burns up!

    I wish I had an extra $5K to build a monster motor. For now, I think finding a better intake and carb set up is the way to go. Any good off the self new carbs for the current manifold for around $250? Maybe I should rebuild the old Carter I have - looks complete. I bet it has been dry for over 20 years.

    Maybe my best bet is to go hunting for a 1966 Riv intake.

    kg
     
  18. 65GS

    65GS Well-Known Member

    :Brow:

    southfork

    a clutch from a 67 corvette 427/435hp will bolt right in.

    i installed one in my 65 gs conv. 4 speed over 20 years ago and it is still working very well. :Do No: ok, ok i'm using a chevy part but it works.

    hope this helps

    al
     
  19. SkylarkNut

    SkylarkNut Well-Known Member

    Thanks, that helps

    I will have to run out to the garage and see was was it it. Then I will have to call the engine builder and make sure he got the right thing.

    kg
     

Share This Page