It MAY be a typo, I've never seen or heard of a piston with cross hatch marks. A cylinder bore yes, a piston, no.
Yes that really sounds weird, especially when they say they cant order single pistons without that info. I really tried to explain I just want 8 similar pistons, but sounds like it is impossible.
I know people have gotten the 3.0 Buick v6 flat top Pistons 6 plus 2 I don't see it being a problem to get. Order two singles. And a six pack. If they are same part number and manufacturer I don't see the problem. But it's like anywhere you go now. No one knows their job well the just ' look it up on computer ' you check jegs?
Single pistons on web site says "Call to order" thats why I cant order them from online. Thats why I send email and now I should know exact weight for single pistons and that cross hatch dingadongalong. Maybe I'll order 2 sets of 6. Cant find them from Jegs. Single: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/uem-s1736-040
Do you guys always change your connecting rod bolts to ARP? Bolt and nut type are pretty expensive, but cheap offcourse if old bolt fails at high rpm. Ever had bolt failure?
If not using a power adder I would not worry about the rod bolts. Keep in mind you need to re-size the rods if you add the ARP. When I bought V6 pistons I bought 4 sets of 6 (24) so I had enough to do 3 v8 engines LOL.
I believe there is 2 different size ARP bolts, standard (.345") and oversized (.0358"). Some people say they always change ARPs, other says they always use old bolts o No:
I had a stock rod bolt failure once on a low power engine that I rebuilt (back in the 1970s) which cost me a new short block. I have always replaced the old rod bolts since. Cheap insurance.
Yes indeed. Most stressed part on the entire engine, especially on deceleration. Main cause is stretching, which fatigues the metal. If it doesn't break immediately, it can cause knocking or premature wear on bearings/crank/rod surface, as well as reduced oil pressure. Bolts nowadays are much stronger than the old OEM ones, pretty much guaranteeing it to hold even under intense duress. I would highly recommend replacement of rod bolts, and even main bolts and head bolts, even for bone stock rebuilds. Gary
Please check number 7: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/124-6002.pdf What does that mean? Bearing hole?
Same thing Sean said in post 109. Re-sizing the rods make sure the big end isn't out of round from the new bolt installation.
Oh I misunderstood he meant re-sizing bolt holes. Again new thing I did not knew. I assume this is basic task for machine shop? What they usually charge for it? How about opinions about bolt size, do you prefer standard or oversize? Is it possible to re-size bolt holes by myself or give it for machine shop?
No, I mean the big end of the rod. That part that goes around the crank pin of the crank shaft. It has to be perfectly round. When you use fresh bolts it can make it out of round. The machine shop will re-size them. You can't do that yourself. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-9903-chevy-connecting-rod/
Im sorry english is not my strenght, but now I totally understood you and Sean talking bearing hole. My second question is about bolts and their holes, ARP sells 2 different sizes, is it just ok to use standard or do you prefer oversize?
Like Larry said, talk to your machine shop about this to see if those are needed, if not needed then it would be best to stick to the standard size. The larger diameter bolt may be slightly stronger but, the larger hole in the rod would make those weaker. Derek
