Got it, I will return the glass filter and get a metal one? Or are the plastic cheap ones fine? When I change coolant, are there extra steps I take to "flush it" other than just draining the radiator and hoses? How to I drain what's left in the block? Oh and the brakes . . . wow . . . I have to double foot it to stop. Seems like the brake booster isn't doing it's job but I will bleed and replace the fluid first. This is my first experience with 4 corner drums! As for the smoke I'm pretty sure it's white, I will check again! But it smells like carbon monoxide.
Good that someone mentioned the glass filter. They leak also. Could be bad. Plastic is OK . yes 4 drum brakes are not great compared to disc. Might want to consider a conversion when you can. With drum brakes make sure self adjusters are lubed and not frozen. Too much shoe gap makes a really bad brake pedal.
You can get additives to add to the trans to revitalize old seals etc. may be worth a try. Maybe some other members have an opinion on this. You can have a blown head gasket without getting anti freeze in the oil, check to see if there are any bubbles in the coolant while it's idling, if there is then a head gasket is not sealing between a combustion chamber and water passage which will allow coolant to enter the combustion chamber on the intake stroke. Hopefully it's just crappy old gas causing the smoke! Also if everything is original there won't be any exhaust manifold gaskets.
I see, I will try and have a look at the brakes, they feel horrible and make screechy metal noises when stopping. Will check out the coolant while running. I'm thinking old gas is definitely a factor as the tank only took $20 to fill and was on "Full" when I filled it up for the first time. Now the needle is above the "Full" mark. I would have thought that 10 year old gas wouldn't be liquid anymore! And I forgot that exhaust manifold gaskets aren't OEM on these. I will check to see if they are there or not. Are they worth adding?
And I forgot that exhaust manifold gaskets aren't OEM on these. I will check to see if they are there or not. Are they worth adding? [/QUOTE] You could open a can of worms trying to loosen manifold bolts that are old and seasoned. They may break, and drilling/ tapping will be needed to refasten manifolds. You may want to let it ride for now.
You could open a can of worms trying to loosen manifold bolts that are old and seasoned. They may break, and drilling/ tapping will be needed to refasten manifolds. You may want to let it ride for now.[/QUOTE] Yeah I'm start to think the same way. I'm going to do as much work on the car as I can this weekend and I will post if (when) things come up!
I changed the coolant in the radiator last night, and I decided to pop the master cylinder to check out the brake fluid while I was at it. One of the reservoirs was bone dry! :shock: Guess that explains the bad feeling brakes! I put more fluid in and the first thing I'm doing this weekend is bleeding the brakes.
Before you waste your time and fluid, I suggest you remove the rear drums and have a look at the wheel cylinders. Same with the front brakes. Fluid doesn't just disappear, it leaked out. Find the leak, fix it, then fill with fluid and bleed. Did you get a copy of the Buick Chassis manual?
Er apologies if this question will be answered by the chassis manual, but the reservoir that was dry was the one closest to the rear of the car. Is it for the rear brakes only? I thought the fluid split was controlled by the proportioning valve, and that one of the reservoirs was just a backup. I'm wrong right haha?
No, you have 2 separate braking systems, front and rear, so a leak in one line doesn't disable both. If you have disc brakes, the larger front section is for them, the smaller rear section is for the rear drums. So if that one was empty, look at the wheel cylinders, one or both are probably leaking unless it is a brake line.
I must say that this is rather tempting . . . http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/5281977072.html I know that any money spent on a 455 swap is better spent getting this car in shape but still :Brow:
The engine appears to be from a big Buick, but there were no 455s in the 69 model year. Also, blue valve covers came on 75-76 455s.o No:
Hmm I'm guessing it was pulled from the car without verifying what car it was originally in! Probably when into a 350 Electra then out again?
Stick to what you have. You don't know the seller. They can't even get the year of the engine correct. It could be a P.O.S.. Do you want to risk the $$$ on that? Not me.
Lame -75-76 engine. You can make more power than that pig had with the 350 . the right cam and shave heads to get at least 9to1 actual compression vs the about 8.4 it might be.
True that, I like the 350 and will stick with it for now, just seeing what's out there. Apparently not a whole lot! Literally leaving work in a few minutes so I can go wrench on the car :grin::grin: I'm going to try and find the block casting # to see if it's and SB or SP!
That motor has an EGR valve on it in the back of the intake. That is no 69 motor that's for sure more like 75 with the blue valve cover.
