I know ATI has a good one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-918410/ So does TA: http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_2027&cat=178
72 Skylark that is being set up for drag racing so it will be lighter than normal. Shouldn't be a problem Chris in his 74 Buick Apollo was running 11.30's with a stock 4 barrel intake. I think he has a little more duration than me but I got more lift. I'm also doing alot of head work. Looking to but a sheet metal intake on it.
I tracked down a single plane intake for your project and I have your headers boxed up and ready to ship to you!:TU: I am negotiating a price for this intake currently and you can either borrow it from me or buy it for what I pay. Notr as pretty as my custom intake however this intake has proven to make great power and has a racing heritage! http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?239729-580-HP-NA-Buick-350-that-raced-the-circle-track Bud's engine made 580 HP at 6000 RPM [rev-limited] and was clearly capable of over 600 with more revs. It used 10.5:1 forged slugs, MILDLY ported heads, small tube headers, that intake, Holly 900 cfm 3V carb, and a hot ignition.... And a HUGE cam. Everything else inside the engine was pretty much built up from stock parts! I do remember that engine had MEGGA torque in the 4000 rpm range, pulled like a hot big block, and it kept it's power right up to the 6000 limit.
That intake is sweet! I'm trying to get back to the engine build but have been doing things to try and make more money. I'm currently building a 350 trans for stock use but a transgo shift kit, which is just the basic. I also have a g body Hotchkis rear control arm kit for sale. I want so much to get this build done and try it out.
I got the pin locks for the Venolia piston. Fitted all 8 pistons and rods at .001 clearance. Installed #1,7,2,8 and checked deck height. Lowest measurment was .055 and highest was .048. Maybe that rod is longer than the rest. I plastigauged 1 rod journal and got right around .002 so that made me happy. The one thing that worries me is the instructions for the Hershe rods side clearance is .015 on the tight side and I have .013 I called Danny Quinlan at his machine shop and he said he would he would check rods and mains to make sure we can get .002 on both mains and rods. he said it would be $125 to deck it. I still have to hot tank it at my work and grind the jagged metal off of it and enlarge that oil hole so more manual labor to save some money.
Might as well have the deck squared at this point plus you want really high compression anyways... Glad to hear you are making progress. I would try to shoot for 0.020 on the rods as well being that you want to rev this engine a lot. For an engine that were to stay under 6000 the 0.013 would likely be just fine.
Wouldn't it be better to have those rods close to .015 since the faster it's spinning this would keep them from sliding back and forth at high RPMS?
Well it is the "oil wedge" between the bearing and journal so as long as there is enough oil pressure and volume it should be fine at high RPM. I just know we are supposed to use wider tolerances when revving really high. I am pretty sure I would just run it at 0.013 but I would feel like a jerk if I told you it was ok and you had issues.
A flat surface and a sheet of around 200 grit sand paper and you can put the clearance where you want it. Just make sure you hold the big end flat on the sand paper when sanding it down. A set of 0-1 mics would let you know when you take off .0005" per side per rod to get you to .015" side clearance,the extra .002" your looking for. If your worried about that .002" that is,its an easy correction.
I just got off the phone with Gary Hershe and he said .015 to .020 would be ok. He said a belt sander would be ok. I told him I was thinking of takeing a .001 from the inside of each rod and he said yes don't take anything from the beveled side by the crank throws. The side by the the crank weights has a beveled edge so knowing that which Gary told me about a while back, we need to leave that side alone since it may affect how it rides up against the crank weights.:Smarty:
A belt sander is going to take material of a lot faster than you think,and likely will not be parallel when your done. Taking off .001" per rod manually with sandpaper and a flat surface will give much more control than a belt sander!! And won't take much time at all.:Smarty: And .0005" off of the chamfered side wouldn't even be noticable to the radius of the crank. An average human hair is about .0075" thick,so .0005" is 15X less than the thickness of a hair. ou: And like Jim Weis said the best way to increase side clearance would be with a precision surface grinder with a magnetic chuck.I gave you a way to do it without that machine that can be controlable without a precision surface grinder because you don't have a lot to take off,but its your engine,so goodluck however you decide to do it.:Smarty: :TU:
Right on I will make a decision based on the knowlege from your last reply. I think I will try the sandpaper first and see how it goes.
Any tricks on keeping the 1/2 inch drill bit straight drilling out the oil feeds? I got the long one done but when I did the one from the pick up to the long feed I was a little off. I would just like to keep them as straight as possible.
Good advise but thats what I did earlier in the day and it worked perfect but here's my next question. the timing cover oil feed to the engine is a little bigger than 7/16 and I miced the outside of the housing and if I open that up to 1/2 there will only be .028 divided by 2 .014 wall thickness which I think is too thin. Does new covers have a bigger feed or do you just open that up a little.
I remember drilling it larger but I have no idea which size bit I used... Maybe I lucked out and had enough meat there, I am not sure. I do not know if the later covers are thicker or not. When I have a chance I can compare. I have a nice clean 77 year cover here to look at.
I took the oil pump cover off after checking end play which it had none and found that the plate was for high volume and the pocket where the gears ride on the sides and timing cover base are ate up from no clearance. So I need a new cover. I got one from Gary when I got the car with the 68 350 and its on it now but if the newer ones have a bigger feed hole I should do that. I seen them for 108 from ATP but the one that was on the 68 before was aftermaket that the previous owner put on and the distributor hole was not aligned right to the oil pump shaft so that might be the issue with the cheap ones. I had a thread on here called timing cover problems or something like that. Does the special billet pump cover help any or is that a waste of money.
I never really noticed the size of the feed holes but I know there are some terrible aftermarket covers. I try to stick with a factory cover, as well as a stock or New old stock water pump as theyy never made them as well as stock. I do know that TA sells a cover that is good for sure as they check them and modify as required before they sell them. Less $ to find a stock late model cover though, but it has to be in good shape.
