Hello again! Water pump died on the 300 in my 67 Lark. Got all the goodies I need to replace, plus some preventative, and dove in this evening. Went well. No huge messes, no sheared bolts. But, I have a few questions for you experts... I want to replace the pump mounting hardware. Can anybody spec the correct material, size/pitch? Also, would like some new studs for the pulley mount. Can anybody spec those? I worry about carrying them to the hardware store, fearful I might return home with the incorrect materials. Just to be certain, there are TWO alignment pins pressed into the timing cover. Correct? Want to be sure these aren't sheared bolts. XD Lastly, what's the best practice for applying sealer? I have a tube of Permatex. When I have done intake manifolds, I didn't use any type gasket at all, just a bead of Permatex. Should I use gasket and sealer on the pump? Can anybody provide torque specs? Thanks for any insight!
When you did intake you installed the valley pan?. Its needed . small bolt are 1/4x20. About 1inch long. The others are 5/16 x18. Various length.
Well...I suppose I remembered incorrectly. I've never used a gasket on the China wall. Just the runners, where I used a gasket, plus Permatex. Seems like a good idea to utilize both for the WP. Thank you for the info and the specifications!
I've never seen a 300 with a valley pan, they have a heat deflector on the bottom of the manifold unless it's a 64 with aluminum heads. My 87 GN has a valley pan.
Well, went well overall. Until the end. Get to the final WP bolt, one of the smaller ones which fasten to the timing chain cover, and attempt to torque to 10 lbs...and it strip out. I'm guessing this was a bit of a preexisting condition, from the PO. Ha. In fact, it may be the source of the leak, and not the WP at all. Not alot of material there on the timing chain cover. I think it'd be tough to drill and tap to a size up. And I doubt just a retapping will do the trick. Shucks...I was looking to get her back on the road tomorrow morning.
