I changed the timing cover and everything that goes with it oil filter,oil and sparkplug wires as well, and it drove around good but when i got on thr free way it wouldnt shift and was screaming loun and poping sound. also my kick down has never been hooked up cause for some reason it dosend reach the carter carb i bought, could that be the problem as well? please help.
get the kick down ( and all linkage ) corrected ( maybe check some internet pics/info or service manuals or someone here may be able to post some pics etc or find a car similar to yours ) and then carefully redo the test drive segment of your learning curve . and recheck your timing/distributor setup . don't over rev that trying to get it to up-shift . del
i double checked distributer everthing is good it rns great under 45 mph hus when i got on the fwy. &all my linkage on the kick down is good jus the part that hooks up to the carb is bout 1/2 inch too short
I just put a 4055S AFB on my 66 300 and ran into the same problem with the transmission kickdown rod. Appearently they must have made two different set ups for the tow barrels and the four barrels. Plus, in 66 no 300 four barrel was available. I solved the linkage problem by getting a length of all tread rod, heating the end to make the eye to attach to the carb linkage and then cutting it to fit. There is one problem I haven't figured out yet, if you adjust the solenoid per the manual you cannot get wot. If you screw it out inorder to get wot, then it won't let the idle arm go back to sit on the idle set screw. This leads me to believe there is a different mounting bracket required for the solenoid. Oh yea, don't lose that push on retainer, they are not available anywhere that I can find. Yes, I lost mine. I put a AFB on mine and now I have a vaacum leak that has yet to be discovered. Good luck.
still having the same problem. ok now its smoking too and still making the popping sound i checked the timing and wires are on write, but when i pulled the number one plug it was black as hell, i just bought them in this past feb. what else coild it be??
Stop! Was the car running ok before you started working on it? If the answer is yes, then you need to go back and review everything you touched. Plugs sound like they are carbon fouled with either gas or oil. Get the engine to run at idle, pull off the PCV valve and see how much blow by you got, you may have a broken ring that is unrelated to the repairs you did. How many miles are on the engine--ever been rebuilt? Run a compression check to see if all the cylinders are ok. Go back and check you points and timing with a dwell meter. Check to make sure every plug wire is going to the correct plug and isn't shorted out or burned through. Run the engine at night to look for stray ignition jumps. Check for a vaacum leak,, possibly you knocked loose or broke one of the vaacum lines. Hook up the kick down, correctly and then see if after you have done all the above if the car improves. At some point you may have to seek the help of a good shop to work through the problem. I think "Doc" may be an excellant source of information if all elese fails. Hope this helps.
yes it ran great before i changed the timing cover. Does it matter how i put the oil pump back in with the distributer tube??
i was told a 350 timing cover will fit my 300,so i put a 68 350 is that causing a problem maybe the distributor is too short.??
