Ok, I got my heads from the machine shop, and my dad says that since the engine is down to the short block we might as well rebuild it. Problem is, I don't know where to get parts such as bearings for the 300.I am supposed to come up with an engine parts list with prices by this Friday. I was thinking I would just hone it because it has very little ridge or possibly bore it .30 over,get a Poston Sb-110A cam and polish the heads and pistons. Any thing else I should do(besides bearings)?I am just looking to build a mild street car.
For parts, Poston should have a rebuild kit. You could also check kanter.com, egge.com, maybe even places like Summit or PAW. Any others, others?
Parts for the 300, 340 I stock parts for this motor. If you use Poston's 110A cam you will probably have to use their valve springs also. I've done this cam install on numerous motors and what I have almost always run into is that at full lift on the cam the stock valve springs will have 3 to 4 coils bound against each other. Check the inside of the oil pump area closely for wear. If your's is bad I have new ones in stock. If you need the parts just let me know. I can be reached either by phone at 316-263-4199 or by email at: monksvintageauto@netzero.net. I specialize in the 300, 340 motor.
Sprigs with dampeners The part no. is PE104. They are the spring with the dampener. What happens with the stock spring is that the material used to wind the spring is of a thicker diameter than the Poston spring. I went round and round with this until Poston gave me the phone number for the guy who accually grinds their cams. I believe his name is Steve Long. I spoke to him a couple of years ago and he stated that the cam was designed to use the aftermarket springs and probably would not work at all with the stock ones. He also told me to watch the push rod length closely as sometimes with a milled head you will need to use ajustables since the rockers can't be adjusted seperately. I've always used the aftermarket springs since the first mistake and haven't had any problems with that cam since then. Hope this helps. He you need the guys number who grinds the cams let me know. I should still have it in my address book.
Don't forget a good double roller timing chain, also a late model V6 oil pickup tube, tell them it's for a 1987 231 engine, it's larger than the puny stock pickup.
I already have a double roller from Postons.I also bought chromoly pushrods form them and noticed they are quite a bit shorter than my stock ones,are they supposed to be?the lifters are also a tiny bit smaller.Is this going to cause problems?
Push rods and lifters I would definitely contact Poston's. The lifters shouldn't be different than the size of the originals. I've never used their push rods so I don't know the specs on them, but I would be concered if they are shorter than stock.
Hey guys I just realied that I ordered their adjustable pushrods.Whaich are for heads that have been milled.30 or more.Are their any oiling mods I should do?
Oiling Mods I would definitely go to a higher pressure than stock, but I personally do not like going to high volume. I always seem to run into problems with the oil not draining back fast enough into the pan with a high volume pump. Go ahead and spend a little time with a dremel grinding out the casting flash in the cam valley and radiusing the oil return holes in the head, but make sure to completely clean the block out once you have done this. I like to actually tap the rear oil galley plug and put a 90 elbow fitting there, drill a hole in the top of the bell housing casting and run a pipe up between the back of the block and the flexplate to use for a oil pressure gage. By metering the oil pressure at the back of the galley instead of at the pump you get a more precise reading as to how much pressure the motor actually has. This is of course only feasible if you are using an aftermarket direct capillary gage.
Additional items to address It may seem like alot for a street motor, but I like to go ahead and take the time and polish the rods. By getting rid of the casting ridge down each side you do away with areas that could potentially result in stress cracks. Get a good set of grinding stones and cut down the ridge on each side. Patience is the key here. Slowly work through the various grits ti you have a nice smooth side. At that point go ahead and finish them with a smooth final finish polishing stone. Be careful around the big and litle ends. YOu don't want to grind off the balance pads. This is easiest to do with the pistons off, but can be done with the piston still fitted if you intend on reusing your original pistons. Once you have gotten all of your pieces you're going to use send the entire bottom end out and have it balanced. Balancer, crank connecting rods, pistons and flexplate. To me it's worth it. The first 340 I ever built 12 years ago had this done and the motor has over 257, 000 miles on it without a hitch, I'm still kicking myself for selling the car, but ................. :3gears:
