I like many of you, have the lower steering shaft rubbing the header at #3 exhaust. Even after switching to A Flaming River after market steering box and shaft, I have done almost all I can do to get it not to rub except "digging" the tube for clearance (something I will not do). I have Posten's-1 7/8"-Stage-one-type full length headers now and want to know what headers you use that do not rub. My next set willl be stage-two headers.
try loosening the the steering column from under the dash.(the firewall plate and the nuts that hold the column to the dash). try to angle the column for best clearance. worked on a friends car.
how are the motor mounts ?? new ones may give you a bit more play ... I removed the motor mount bolt, jacked the engine up to get enough clearence for a 3/8" extention to fit then let it down slowly ..wiggled ...let it down some more...etc ... to get the clearence
Everything is new. I have moved the steering column to the left as much as possible, but it still rubs. If no headers are avalible then I guess I will have to build a new lower shaft out of a couple u-joints! Has anyone put a couple of washers between the motor and the engine mounts?
This is for sure a pain for all. On my 67, I moved the column as much as possible (sloted holes) and I actually used thick stud washers between the frame and the front holes on the steering box. That's means the toe will have to be reset to keep the steering wheel centered. That was using a Vega box too. I have Stage 2 and the engine slide back some. The Stage 1 headers had a more serious hit. The only car I have had without this problem was my 68 with Polston 1 7/8" headers. those things fell on and off with no problems. Jim N.
I think you get assigned one of these problems. The header rubs the steering shaft, or you have less hood clearance and have trouble with SP-1's or using spacers. I have no problems with the steering but hood clearance stinks. It must be the close torerances that cars were built with the 70's.ou:
My "OLD" Kenne-Bell's are 1 7/8 and they have all kinds of clerarance.I have had them in a few cars and the only ones I had to ding them for was a Reaga,but they weren't reall designed for a G body anyways.Most other headers need a hammer taken to them in some place,even the TA 350 headers on my 73 GS hit the pass upper control arm.
I have TA 2" full length headers, mine have about a 1/4" clearance, but.....................when I put the engine in I had to put 1/4" spacers under the frame pads to make it line up
Michael, I have hooker 1 7/8 long tube headers, that I bought from the GS club. I have no issues with rubbing or fit what so ever . They even ride up nice and high, so they are hard to see, and keep the exhaust from hitting things. In fact, they were about the most bolt up and go thing, I have done to my car. Maybe I just got lucky this time. Good luck in your search. Regards, John.
I had to ding every header on every car that I put on a set. But every truck that I installed them on fit easily. Go figure. I love headers and put them on everything.
I have TA's 7/8 full and have no problems with rubbing. Only thing I had to do was using a crowbar :shock: to get the nr7 tube to align with the bolt-holes, and raise the engine some ofcourse.
