That 68 is really cool, AL. I can relate to that project also. I'm just getting into my 69 Camaro project again, after 15 years dormant. It's a 327 4speed, original 3speed, but a one owner car still owned by that owner, my Dad. I think he was starting to think that I would never get started on it, so I set my Buicks aside temporarily, and have built up it's original 327 significantly, switched to a 4speed, and swapped in a 12 bolt posi 3.42 rear. I've recently finished replacing the rear frames rails, trunk floor, shock towers, and now I'm replacing the rockers, both halves of both rear wheel wells, and the quarters. The repro parts have been nightmare though. Being used to having to make everything for my Buicks, I was excited about working on something that had so many parts available. But it is all junk. The Goodmark stuff is a joke, except for the trunk lid, which seems to be nice. The trunk filler panel is going in without too much work also. But I took back the first set of wheel wells because they were such poor quality. And I ended up making the new ends for the frame rails myself. The 80% quarters I bought will end up being skins, because quality is very bad beyond the bend at along the top. I'm glad that I didn't waste my money on the full quarters that Goodmark now offers. As for the Buick powered H body, I sold it to someone else on here who really wanted it badly. So I'm assumming that it lives on. Dan, that sounds great. I should be on here more now that the holidays are passing. I don't really remember anything else being that tricky. The later manifolds(without heat shield), a v6 oil filter, and all v6 brackets is 95% of the job, with the rest of the work in some very minor frame work on the pass side for the manifold outlet. The aluminum intake would be a good idea for weight savings alone, because you would end up with something very close to a stock v6 for weight.
David, In the parts wanted section under "Late 70's driver side exahust manifold for 350", there is a post with a picture of a driver's side manifold with an indentation in it. Is this the "pocket" you were talking about? I know the add states that it is from a 68-69 skylark, but if this will work, then I should be ok with my exsiting manifolds because I believe that the one on my engine already has this same indentation. Thanks, Dan
Dan, That manifold has a little pocket, but there is far more of a depression in that area on the later ones because it was part of a larger heat stove for air to the carb in cold weather. Look closely at the picture that I posted with the 350 sitting in a Sunbird. The steering shaft is passing right through this area. By luck, that was the manifold on that engine to begin with because it was a 1976 Buick 350 from one of my Lesabres. You need all the room you can get in any H body engine compartment. Any manifold that ran straight across between the #5 and #7 exhaust ports would have hit the steering shaft.
David, Is this the type of manifold that you spoke of? It sounds like it, but I want to be sure. Thanks, Dan
Hello Dan, I've been having some bad luck accessing this forum here lately, so I couldn't sign on to actually see the manifold until today. But that could be the one. I do know that the manifold must come from a later motor. I do have a late 70s or possibly an 80 Buick 350 in the shop right now so I'll try to get the casting number from the drivers side manifold for you because it is definately the correct one, although it is cracked.
Hey Dan, Here are a few shots of the later manifold. The one you have pictured looks like it could be the one. The casting number on mine is 1246669.
David, I got the engine almost in the car. and am wondering if you followed any particular sequence when you did your swap into the sunbird. I had to take the driver's side exhaust manifold off in order to get the engine in as far as I have, but I still need to move it back about 3-4" before the engine block mounts line up with the frame mounts (I couldn't get the passenger's side manifold off because the bolts were so frozen that I would have rounded them if I tried to get them off). Will I be able to feed the driver's side exhaust manifold in from underneath once the engine is bolted in? Do I need to remove the steering column, bolt the engine in place, and then reinstall it? I was thinking about unbolting the engine block mounts, place them over the frame mounts, slide the engine back, and then bolt the engine mounts back to the block. It all looks really tight-I'm not sure I can even do this, so any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan
Dan, I do recall the problem that you are talking about. I guess you could remove the steering shaft between the column and the steering gearbox. Then put it back in after the engine is in place. I do that for my Chevy powered Monza to get the headers out of the way far enough to pull the engine. With the Sunbird, I think that I left the driver's side manifold off though, then put it up from the bottom after the engine was sitting where it should be. The problem was made worse by the fact that I had to move the engine towards the driver's side just the get the right manifold to clear as I dropped the engine in. The pass side manifold can't be installed once the engine is in because there isn't any room to back out the long center and rear bolt. It has to be in place as you drop the engine in. Best bet is to leave off the driver's side manifold until the engine is in. The method of leaving the mounts off so that you can slide the engine straight back is also one that I have used on more than one other car. Another thing to consider is that the Vega engine compartment might be a little tighter than a Monza since the Buick V6 didn't come even as an option for that year. So you might find some interference issues that I didn't come across. I do know the Vega compartment is a little shorter.
David, Thanks. I ended getting the engine in today doing what you said. Man, what a tight fit! But now I'm running into slight interference problems between the driver's side exhaust manifold and the steering column (even tho I got the manifold you suggested). You're right-the original manifold wouldn,t have made it by a country mile! Do you recall having to trim the driver's side exhaust maniold? Do you, or anybody else, know about how much I can trim without compromising the manifold? I hope I can make this work-I'm so close. Thanks again for all your help. Dan
Exhaust manifolds are only about 1/8 of an inch thick in some areas, I personally would not suggest grinding into one unless you just need to shave it ever so slightly. Off the top of my head, here are a few ideas I'll throw out for you to consider: *Shim the drivers side motor mount with a couple of washers to "move it over" a little *Unbolt the steering column/steering box and shim/re-adjust/move them over *Re-drill the trans mount and move it over 1/2 inch or so * put an extra u-joint in the steering shaft [I'v seen the adds for these in circle track mag as well as custom rodder mag... Actually very reasonably priced] I'm no expert here, just throwing a few ideas out for you o No: Good luck! It's gonna be a blast :TU:
Dan, I did have to push the engine as far to the pass side as it would go. Doing that caused the pass side manifold to hit the structure that the right upper control arm attaches to. I just put a small notch so that it would clear. Once I had clearance for the right manifold, the engine went over far enough to the right to clear the steering shaft on the left. It was indeed still close, but the engine torques away from the shaft unless you torque it while in reverse.
Dan, Iv noticed your selling a buick 350 engine and tranny in the parts for sale section. What gives? You throwing in the towel on this project?
