200R4 is in my 72 skylark, and one of the last details is to get my E-brake cable relocated and operational, since the crossmember has moved back some. Who has found something that works, and what is it? Shorter cable? Relocated cable hook? Thanks for sharing your experience with this retrofit.
I see that all of you have originally been 350 /TH350 cars; mine was 455/ TH400. Changed out driveshaft for 350 car was what I had to do, So I guess that the brake cables for 455 cars are different than 350 cars o No: . Considering the crossmember is located in same slot as TH400 for TH200-4R, it should be simple fix. Glad someone else mentioned this, as I plan to swap out the TH350 on the 71 skylark convertible. Maybe not now that I'm seeing all these swaps having this same problem. Perhaps use some "S" hooks or eye bolts or adjustable turnbuckles to run cable through to the frame to stretch the cables outward some where the stock "<___>" hooks are? That would be a LOT cheaper than new E-brake cables all around.
interesting. If the middle/long ebrake cable for the 455-400 setup is shorter than the 350-350 one, because the TH400 crossmember is the same location as a 200R4 mount IE further back to the rear, then it might be the answer. I will look into this. thanks!
Outstanding! It appears that the 455ci-TH400 cable is indeed shorter. Advance Auto has a Dorman version 82.5" long. I measured my 350ci-TH350 cable at a whopping 96 inches! Next thing I will do is mark the 82.5 dimension on my TH350size cable and do a test fit. Maybe the answer will be as simple as an intermediate Ebrake cable swap. Will advise.....
Saw this from another similar question on this board (swapping TH400 for TH350) :Figures that it isn't that uncommon!: "You will also need the primary e-brake cable and the intermediate brake cable. You can get them from www.inlinetube.com<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________ George Nenadovich Buick Performance Founder www.buickperformance.com" Considering George's knowledge and history, I'd consider it to be accurate. Every little bit helps.
I reasoned the same thing. Moving the crossmember back to where it bolts into the same location as where a Th400 would be, it therefore should use the same cables as a BBB/Th400. I have both cables, just haven't put them in. I needed new ones anyhow. While pushing the car out of the garage one day, the old one got wrapped up in the driveshaft. Only way to get it off was to cut it.
I just got out from under the car. I checked the geometry with just a simulated TH400 size intermediate cable, and I could not get it to work. So it does appear you would need the primary cable from the TH400 setup as well. Thanks guys. HOWEVER since I am rarely willing to part with cash if I dont absolutely HAVE to....... I found a geometry that will work with the TH350 sized (96") cable. Look at the pics. I used the "big" crossmember cable hanger thing in the second hole from center underneath the floor. I then tried the smaller S-shaped hanger thing on the crossmember in the hole closest to the tailhousing, but the trouble was that the cable would interfere with the Driveshaft knuckle/Ujoint. SO I fabricated a shorter custom hanger from a nail I had kicking around, for testing purposes, and it works great! The cable is guided underneath the Yoke, in front of the Ujoint. No interference. I am going to get some 1/8" round steel and bend a hanger up with a loop on the end to hold the cable in a more positive manner. The primary cable hookup sits on the crossmember but it does not hang up when actuated. I guess time will tell if rattles are going to be a problem.
Or if you wanted to use the Th350 intermediate cable, how about using a piece of threaded rod and a coupler to extend the primary cable?
TH400 you mean. Yes that is another good idea. Threaded rod "extender", coupler, and the shorter TH400 intermed. cable. Might work if interference with the driveshaft can be avoided. thanks!
I used a cross member from bowtie overdrives on my 64 Skylark. After tranny installation I just had to tighten up the cable and it worked fine. I almost ran out of thread on the stud portion of the adjuster. If that happens you can put a sleeve over thestud between the nut and the "carrier" the cable runs through, or you can try to run a tap down the stud and cut some more threads.
