2-post lifts: Base plate vs. overhead

Our concrete is 8" thick no steel in it have had the lifts in now for over 20 year . No issue with the floor what so ever besides being dirty all the time

 

When I needed a low ceiling height model lift I discovered that there were only a few to choose from. I was quoted $6500 for the Mohawk A7 (7,000 lbs) installed and $3400 installed for the Challenger CLFP9 (9,000 lbs). I did like the Mohawk more because this A7 low ceiling height model is a clear floor design and has an adjustable height overhead hydraulic line to accommodate any ceiling height. The only downside, besides the cost, are that the two columns are not tied together with a substantial beam like other overhead 2-post lifts like our Rotary. That may explain why the Mohawk has a huge mounting baseplate at the bottom of each column, to make up for not having the columns connected structurally.

I will say this, when I was wrestling the transmission and transfer case in and out of our SUV, I was sure wishing I had the Mohawk A7, even if it was twice the cost of the Challenger CLFP9. That floor plate of the Challenger does get in the way when doing a transmission.

Also, neither of the floors where we have lifts installed have any rebar. Both lifts were installed by the authorized manufacturer's installer and they both said that our 4.5" standard slabs were fine. After many years of use we've never had an issue. The heaviest thing we've had on the Rotary lift is a 2500HD pickup and a mid-size SUV on the Challenger, so neither lift has been near its max rated capacity. It still makes me nervous to be under any vehicle that's on a lift so I try to be very careful to lift the vehicle correctly. I also lift it a few feet, stop, and then give it a few good pushes to make sure it seems stable.

 

I also have been pondering getting a lift. Height is not an issue as my building was formerly a truck repair business.

Does anybody know if the 2 post lifts with the swing arms (preferable to me due to the open center) work on GMs X-Frame cars like my '59 Chevy?

 

I put a 2 post overhead, picked it out then built the building (Way too small building!). It is 12,000lb extra tall and extra wide from Greg Smith. It only came with symmetric arms. It is wide enough to back through and lift trailers. It is great but has some things I don't like. The heavy duty arm assemblies are too high to allow car doors to open over them which cuts down the exit from car space.
My friend has a 10,000 lb overhead from same company with asymmetric arms that is not extra wide but is much easier to get out, and into the car, and more flexible on where the car needs to be located (If you get my description) because his arms will both fold back and rest side by side if you like. So his is really easy to locate the car anywhere the arms will fit under the car/truck.

 

I'm not familiar with the X-frame cars, but if there are four jacking spots between the front and back wheels there shouldn't be a problem.

 

I ve had no issue lifting 41 plymouths, 55 chevys, 39 mercury, several studebaker.

Some cars I do need to use wood blocks to help clear some plastic rockers parts on newer cars...... mine is a vassar......only issue I've had is the seal on 1 side started leaking sometimes.......it will go months without then leave a puddle

 

Overhead. Definitely. I work with one every day. That being said . I also work with a Bendpak Scissors full rise lift . I prefer that 10 to 1 over an above ground 2 post for doing bodywork or anything else

 

I'm starting the build of a 24x32 shop, slab on grade radiant heat, pex 3 inches deep. Anyone have any tips on 2-post vs 4-post for this kind of set up. 10'6" ceiling. With pex in the slab, not sure I want to go 2-post...

 

If I were you I'd add an additional 2' to the height, making it a 12'6" ceiling. The extra height will be so beneficial in the end you will be glad you did it.


Keith

 

I worked for 20 years on a lift that had a baseplate, and when I opened my own shop I chose overheads because the base plates ones are awful! Not only are they in the way for trans jacks, floor jacks, etc, but the crud build-up under the plate was a pain to deal with too, along with the constant tripping. I haven’t read all of the responses, but many manufacturers have “low-ceiling” versions of their normal lifts now too.

 

Does anyone know a good source for lifting points on different cars? For example, many foreign cars have a central jacking point for the jack in the trunk. Obviously one place per side isn't going to work on 2 post. Is there a reference guide commercial garages use?

 

On my asymmetric Rotary I put the arms up and then roll the car in. That gives me much more room to maneuver! I then carefully lower the arms to lift the car.

 

Unfortunately, can't go higher because of by-law restriction

 

If any of you guys have links to ones you like or dislike I would appreciate it. Not sure I will ever get a lift, but I like to look. I have a two car garage and weld. A lift may take up too much room.

 

I bought my 10k lift at Greg Smith. No problem with it now for 5 years.

https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/...5ol94LewpBK8h-w-1dxfnBFa4RmHeJtwaAoATEALw_wcB

 

Believe me Adam you won't be sorry.

 

If you can’t find something that fits you dimensions in an overhead, then one with a baseplate will work just fine. It’s much better than no lift. I’m partial to Challenger, but their are plenty of good choices out here now.

 

Cnd72sky 455
Figure out your shop layout and don't put any PEX near where the lift towers will bolt in and you will be fine. Pick your lift out and get the engineering info for installation recommendations before pouring the floor.

 

Sound advice. Thanks jesupercat. Now the million question: 2 or 4 post for a frame-off resto followed by many years of upkeep, upgrades and pure enjoyment!