I have worked on, pulled, and/or installed various makes and models of engines over the years, but I have never tried to rebuild a engine let alone a 322 nail head. Is there a check list of what or how I should go about this? The 322 is still attached to the 1954 buick model 52 Super, the previous owner pulled the right side head off to discover a shattered piston. I know the first thing I need to do is pull it off the frame and trans. Then tear it down, here is where I need the help. Are there any pit falls or things I should be aware of while in disassembly? I know with enough time and money I will get this done, Time I have... I want to do as much of this myself, I am not looking for horsepower as its going in a 54 4door Buick Super. I am looking to get it on the road and I want to have a reliable engine. Ill stop here and see what the response is! Thanks, jerry
In 1975 our 322 dropped a valve, and shattered a piston. That piston scored the cylinder badly. We had the scored cylinder sleeved. We went back with all stock gear and specs. The harmonic balancer gave us a hard time, until we put a gear puller on it. Be sure you prime the oil pump. On our rebuild; 35 years and, no problems.
Jerry,,, on any nailhead that has busted a piston, first pull the engine and tear it down to the bare block and take a real hard look at the oil gallery that is cast into the block and runs full length of the engine under the cam....a lot of times when a piston comes apart the pieces fly around in the crank case and breaks that oil galley.... if that has happened the block is toast..... and,,,, if you replace the valve guides, do it BEFORE you grind the valve seats.... so the valves will have true seats..... and double, no, triple check the machine shop that you plan to use for the machine work.... you can get some real jake leg mechanics ..... and,,,, stick to the EXACT buick factory specs.... dont deviate any at all.... when assembling , use moly grease on the cam and lifters,, it doesnt drain off.... when you install the oil and filter, use a bottle of zddp additive each and every time and there after never change oil and filter without the additive.... prime up the engine oil pump with a drill motor before starting it up....and a nail head is like any other engine to rebuild except the valves are on the inside of the rocker arm shafts and speaking of rocker arm shafts, be sure to break the assemblies down and take the plugs out of the ends of the shafts and run a rifle cleaning brush thru them to get the crud out and there will be crud in there.... nail heads have forged steel cranks, forged steel rods and like you have discovered , cast pistons.... you will have to sleeve that cyl that had the busted piston , most likely, because the wrist pin hammers 4 trails up and down the cyl. walls.... Tom Telesco can better advise you about the early engines than I can.... as to what is different about them... i am more at home with the 401/425 engines....
You didn't say whether this will be a restoration overhaul that will go back into the '54 as a stocker; or whether this will be a performance rebuild. If it's a stocker - Doc is absolutely correct. Stay with stock specs and don't even think of installing hardened (or any replacement) valve seat inserts. If you are doing a performance overhaul, see if you can find a set of '56 heads. they flow better then the '54 heads do.
It will fit the '54. I always liked the Carter WCFB 4-barrels. They are getting a bit old, but if you can find a kit for one, they work well and if for a Buick, will allow the continued use of the gas pedal starting feature and a stock air cleaner.
Join the Nailhead group on Yahoo for some great help-member Russ Martin has a shop in Grass Valley, Calif and knows the early nails very well-good luck
