I first installed the new TC from TSP to the transmission, but when we dropped the engine in, we couldn't get in to line up. We learned the nub on the TC was bigger than the hole in the stock flexplate. On the new converter, the nub was 0.5" larger than the one that came with the car (and was not tapered) and the flexplate to mounting holes were an 1/8th" farther apart. Frustrated and begrudgingly, we put the old converter back in and installed the engine (but thankfully without further issues). About ten minutes after we were done, my buddy reminded me of the flexplate, Pioneer Inc. part number FRA-168, he'd given me about 5 years ago...pulled it out and it lined up perfectly with the new converter. Is it possible a previous owner put a flexplate and TC that was intended for another application (Olds or Pontiac maybe?)? In the last 20,000 miles I've put on it in the last 5 years, it always started fine and didn't sound odd, but I'm getting ready to install a mini-starter from Newport Start 'N Charge and want to make sure I'm not going to damage it. I'd like to drive it as is because I'm going to replace the 40 year old transmission next spring, but can easily be convinced that's a stupid idea.
when you say "nub" are you talking about the center register part of the converter that fits into the crankshaft or the bolt holes that secure the converter to the flexplate?
The center register part that fits into the crank. Until 10 minutes ago, I thought the interference was being caused by the flexplate...just pulled the engine and learned that it's part of the crank. Crankshaft in engine: Stock crank (replaced because a bearing failed): Nub on Stock Converter: New one: So take both converters to a shop and have them machine the new nub to match the length (minus the protrusion on the old one that fits into the hole in the center of the crank)?
looks like there might be a 4 speed pilot bearing in the replacement crankshaft. you shouldn't have to do anything to the converter to make it fit. remove the obstruction from the crankshaft
first thing i would do is clean it up really well and verify that it is indeed a pilot bearing. if it is there are a couple ways to remove it. it appears to be a dick miller roller bearing designed for an automatic crankshaft that was not machined for a regular pilot bearing from the factory.
Matt, Get a slide hammer, and remove the pilot bearing that is in your new crank there. Then clean up the hole, so it's like your old crank. Use light sand paper or scotchbrite. A hone if you have one.. Test fit the converter on the crank. The pilot size is standard, and has been the same for all GM vehicles since the early 60's. JW
Please tell me I don't have to remove the crank from the engine to do this without damaging anything. The new converter (thanks, Jim!) will fit in the hole just not far enough because of the bearing.
I don't know how different that pilot bearing is from the normal one, but I just recently used the grease and hammer trick to pop an old normal one out of my crankshaft. Pack with wheel bearing grease as best you can, find a socket that fits pretty tightly into the middle of the bearing (not interference fit), put an extension on it to plug the square hole, and tap it into the hole. Didn't take much force and brought the bushing right out. Brake cleaned and shop toweled the grease out.
Nope, no crank removal required, and what silverbuick says is correct. You can hydraulic it out, with thick grease.. pack the cavity full, and then compress it, and it will pop that bearing out. That looks just like the other type of throwout bearing, that is sized to fit the converter hub slot, instead of the smaller one that goes deeper in the crank.. I would be really surprised if that is not what it is. Just get that bearing out of there, clean it up, and your good to go! JW
I packed it as full as I could with grease, and can definitely feel the pressure when I push on it with my finger, but when I put a 3/8" extender with electrical tape wrapped around it (hole measure 0.62" and the extension with tape is 0.6"), grease just comes out. Maybe it's because the engine is on the hoist and moving when I hit the extension with the hammer? I'm got to use the largest socket I have to see if I can knock the bearing further in, and then use some naval jelly to remove any rust that's in the crank opening. If that doesn't allow it to pop out, looks like it's slide hammer time. I appreciate all the tips, tricks, and part identification (didn't realize that was a bearing at all). I thought this was going to be a much more severe problem than a run of the mill frustration.
If you don't mind wrecking the pilot bearing. Take a sawzall and slowly cut the bearing from the center out. Once, you almost cut it all the way thru. It should come out out the crank. It's bronze or brass and cuts easily.
Since the pilot bearing remover borrowed from Advanced Auto didn't work, I bought slide hammer from Harbor Freight. When that didn't move the bearing at all, I took a cutoff wheel, or 10, to it. Still didn't pop so I kept drilling into it until the groove was wide enough to fit a pry bar....just when I was about to give up, it came out. Not surprisingly, the new torque converter fits in the crank just fine now...with a reversal of luck, I should be taking it on a test drive tonight. About a 1/4" steel:
Done the same thing a couple times, except I ground down a large bolt to fit into the pilot hole. Gives you a good surface to smack the hammer on too.
