im in the process of swapping my bench for buckets .im going to fab the inside mounts ,instead of spending $50.oo ,and waiting. my question is what heigt is the frnt/rear mounts.apears to be about 1 " in the front , and 1/4 " in the rear , but i cant find real numbers .if im going thru the trouble , might as well do it right .?? thnx for any imput /advice
im sure someone has an idea how high the inside seat mounts are. its no harder to make them out of 1/8 ,or even 1/4 but the height would be nice . ireally want to paint my floor boards ,but i need to weld the mounts down first and not wait on brackets from ppi or opgi , thnx ,ill settle for a educated guess.pix are hard to determine!!! i guess its a secret. guess ill bolt the outside rear down ,block it till looks right , measure down on the other 3 , and go with it . thnx
fyi the frnt pads should be apout 3/4 high and 1 3/4 square the inside rear should be about 1/4 high .all const. out of 1/8" steel .probably overkill as its way thicker than the floor ,or the seat base but at least its SAFE. the method i used is very easy , and the results are near enough perfect for me .seats operate grt .and mounts will never be seen after carpet install .thnx for all the input!!
Glad you got them mounted Bill, now im not trying to pick on you nor was In my earlier reply, but my seeing how this is an open forum and lots of people may refer back to this thread for info, I must say as someone who does restoration and auto body repair daily and have for 20yrs , the issue isnt the thickness its the mounting footprint, the factory brace uses over 30 spot welds and pulls on a MUCH larger area vs a stand or pedestal, and if you did in fact make a piece tgat extended from front to back then thats good. But a 200lb man sitting in a 55lb seat attached to a couple in long weld isn't safe in a collision, once again im not picking on you, I just have sit thru my share of Icar classes and seen firsthand what an improperly mounted seat can do in a collision thats all
point well made . i originally just wanting to mount the seat in its original position . but it never had buckets originally. it was never a gs , and never will be . so i guess what maters is safety ,comfort ,and looks .not always in that order.it does seem that the weak link is the stock seat frames .but i hope to never get to be the crash test dummy!! i never was real smart though. is a continuos weld weaker than spot welds? the way i made my mounts ,each one is welded 6 in. around the base .thats 24 in. of weld on each seat .aint mig welders amazing! seems that should be as strong as factory mounts ,and orig. seat belt anchors. plan b ,anyone want to swap a 71 skylark custom , with gs hood ,and spoiler , for a volvo????
To answer your question about a seam weld vs spot welds a few factors come into play but generally speaking spot welds when welding sheet metal together are stronger, because you are gripping metal thru the center of a hole and not along the very edge. And it easier to rip metal once its started just like a piece of paper vs the spot welds allow it to crumple up but yet remain intact.
Interesting thread. I read once the belts stop everything anyway (ie you are stopped by the belts and the seat really is too), if you look at the seat attach bolts they are pretty small. Thoughts?? I know one of the GS cars I parted out, half the spot welds on the seat and console brackets missed and even had some holes through the floor...it was an untouched car.ou: Quality control has come a long way.
