first off it has to be reliable. second off I am will to up the compression ratio only naturally aspirated tho. I was told not to exceed 9 to 1 compression so that is as high as i want it to go. any ideas? and please keep in mind that this is my first time doing engine work so I'm mainly looking for bolt on parts, but i do have the tuning end of the deal covered as well.
Head porting, cam and good ignition timing are the major items to address. As to how much of each, that's where everyone's opinion will vary.
Mill the heads to get 9:1, check valve to piston clearance, Use a TA212 cam and you are likely over 300 hp with a stock intake and Q-jet carb. Add some head porting and you are looking at 350 hp and lots of TQ.
juston350 roller rocker conversion plate with chevy 350 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers 750 holly double pumper or even 800 cfm carb for transmiision side coan racing 2800 stall converter, transgo shift kit and tranny cooler rearend side 3.42/detroit trutrac
To Sean Buick 76 What happens if I have clearance issues with the valves and pistons? Will long tube headers help? And I already have a poston aluminum intake. Planning on using head studs and main studs to always better to be safe than sorry.
hay this is off the wall would any body know where I could find a spec sheet on my 73 riv thanks curt
I would start by calculating the actual compression ratio and going from there. If you have valve to piston interference you can add notches to the pistons however 95% of the time this is not required. Check valve to piston clearance before milling and you will k now you will be safe as long as you do not mill too much. Then use adjustable pushrods to make up for the pushrod length difference. I would not use the studs unless you are going to have the mains align honed because the studs will pull things differently than the stock bolts. Stick with the bolts theya re good up till about 600 hp. Long tube headers help but also reduce ground clearance....
Sean, aren't studs only an issue when a girdle is used? I thought it was the girdle that adds a variable, thus requiring the "as assembled" boring.
Well yeah they work great when you use the Burton Machine kit with the heads milled to make them fit. This eliminates the poor non adjustable stock rockers. Just call mark and he can set you up, any machine shop can do the work to the heads to make this work and you can get SBC roller rockers for really low cost. So far they are proven in the 630 HP range on a Buick 350. http://www.burtonmachine.com/documentationtechnical/
Studs change the way the caps torque down and SOMETIMES the bearing clearances stay the same however usually an align hone is required to get the mains back to spec... This why I only suggest studs when align honing.
Sean is correct, When you use studs the block stresses differently than with bolts ( not really much ) but none the less if you use studs you should have them inserted and then torrqued with the caps to align bore the block. Same with the head studs, You should have them inserted and then torqued with a torque plate to insure proper machining.
Torque plates are not needed with the Buick 350. As the holes the studs screw into are blind and do not open into a water jacket. Or at least that's what I've always been told.
