Any one have any idea what you can rev stock 71 rods too?? Heard early rods may be stronger, but later rods have proven to be just as strong. With my new SP-3 intake & the turbos(only running 8lbs of boost), just wondering what I can safely rev too? Currently have a 6000 pill in the msd & considering throwing in the 7000 pill. Thoughts, concerns.... Let me know
from what I remember the early rods were the weaker ones, good to about 450 maybe. Remember reading couple guys with around 350 hp in their 350 with early rods that were revving to 6500. 73 up rods could handle over 550, not sure what the revs were on that.. But if your 350 turbo'd with a single plane.. I would think your right on the edge lol
If you use heavy duty rod bolts and reconditioned shot peened rods I can see them holding up to 6000 rpm on a early rod but I would get lightweight pistons to help those rods live.
I'd say with the later (Stronger) cap screw rods 6000 rpm should be ok, lighter pistons will help with reliability as alec said. 7000 rpmray:
So are you saying as long as we're ok with changing cam bearings we should be shifting at 6500?? :beers2: Shifted yesterday at like 57-5900 and it felt Amazing.. I wanted more
Is that with stock Pistons or a set of lighter forged Pistons? Anything special done to your block? Or to the rods? Or was everything just stock?
I have my Governor in my trans set to auto shift 1 to 2 @ 6000, I then hold it in second and manually shift at 5900 to third when Im at the track. I feel 6 grand is ok, as long as everything is up to par, oil pressure, clearances, and absolutely NO DETONATION:shock: My crank is crossdrilled, so the rods "see" oil more often, which helps for higher rpm shifts. There is a difference between shifting at 6000 rpm and sustaining 6000 rpm. I believe trying to sustain 6000 rpm will definitely kill the engine somewhere. I know the feeling with the engine still pulling past 6 grand, mine does the same, but its VERY sketchy doing that with cast rods, pistons. Resist the temptation my friend
I shift mine between 5800 to 6200 for years have not broken a rod yet. But I would not try to run at 6000 grand for an extended period of time,just to be safe.
Same here, 6,200 to 6,300 shifts for the norm. Limiter set to 6,500 and have hit that a few times. Rear end, with stickys....another story....
what i do is a lot different than what every else does. you need to build the short block correctly before attempting any stupid human tricks i do. there are a lot of other things done that are kind of hard to explain. kind of like 'kentucky windage'. i would recommend you stay below the 6k until the short block is hopefully done right.
The later 73 and up rods are obviously stronger, beefier, and heavier (visual). But my observation is, if you are running a properly designed cam to take advantage of the turbos, you should shift right when the torque starts to fall at 5500 or so. I don't see the point in going past there. Someone enlighten me. Sure. It will pull hard to whatever RPM you want with boost, but if it changes to second gear, it's pulling as hard or probably harder. Change at 5250 where the lines cross.
In regards to enlightening you Jay. I am running the new SP3 & this thing pulls hard way past 5500 rpm. I'm also running a piston 114 cam which is really well suited to the turbos. I thinking with the meth keeping it cool, should be a problem pulling up to 6500, & if it blows, I'll build a block to hold 20lbs of boost, using the nascar rods, forged Pistons & Dereks knowledge to get it done properly
a s/p on the 350 has no problem going to 7500. just make sure you have everything that's needed. my 7500 was stock rods and hyper's and .500+ cam, 1.65 rkrs, etc, etc. now we do 6500 because of a blower. think and think before you blow it up.
I hear you Johnny. I'm having fun with it getting it dialed in with a tune. I'm not just going to blow it up for the hell of it. Most likely going to gather all the parts this fall & build a boost block over the winter.
