I have a 1971 Buick Skylark Custom 4 door with a 350-2. The engine is all original. I'm going to be pulling the engine out in late May or Early June just to replace a few gaskets and seals and am looking for some tips and pointers from you guys. The car runs fine, it's just been sitting for the past few years and has some exhaust leaks, and a rear main seal leak. I figured since I was going to be replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and real main seal, might was well pull it out and clean it and the bay and repaint the block. I'm not looking to rebuild it, just freshen it up. Also I'm keeping it stock, no performance parts. The History My great grandparents bought this car brand new in 1971. They daily drove it until the early 2000s when they couldn't drive much anymore. It was garage kept the entire time. The car was then given to my grandparents (who liven next door to me). It mostly sat outside with a tarp over it for the next several years. My grandparents decided that they didn't want the car anymore and listed it on auto trader. It was around this time that I discovered the car was just sitting and had a 350 v8. I was 18 at the time and about to graduate from high school. I expressed interest in the car and my grandparents gave it to me as a graduation present. The first time I drove the car I ran out of gas and had to push it back home ou: I had another car at the time which was my daily driver so I worked on the Buick a little bit when I could. I rebuilt the carburetor, changed the fuel pump and filter, valve cover gaskets, automatic trans filter, and a few misc hoses. In 2005 I did an engine swap on my daily driver and the Skylark was bumped up into daily driver status. It ran great, except that I had to constantly fill up the transmission fluid. The reason why I want to replace the rear main seal. Also it started developing an exhaust leak by the manifolds. That year I also replaced the fan clutch, the heater core (as it started leaking on the floor), and replaced the steel wheels with hub caps with the Buick Rallye Wheels. In 2006 I moved away from home, and halfway across the country, and left the skylark at my parents house. Around 2007 my Dad bought a huge garage in our backyard and the Skylark was moved back indoors. However the 6 or 7 years of sitting outside did cause a few rust spots to develop on the body. Once in the garage the Skylark was basically forgotten by everyone and wasn't even started for several years. In May 2010 when I went home for a visit I tried to start the Skylark to no avail. My Dad and I got some fresh gas and replaced the fuel filter and she fired right up. The exhaust leak by the manifolds was even worse though. Since then my Dad has been starting her up every couple of weeks and letting her idle. She still hasn't been driven since 2006. In December of 2010 I tried to freshen her up a little more by replacing a few more gaskets and hoses. That was when my Dad and I formulated the plan to pull the engine and do a slight overhaul. The engine has about 120,000 miles on it and was well kept for most of its life. When I last drove it in 2006 it was still strong and ran great. The Plan In late May or Early June I am going back home for a week and my Dad is going to have the same week off. We are going to pull the engine out, break down all the bolt on components, clean the outside of the engine really, really good, paint it (the block and heads were originally all red, right? what about the intake manifold, water pump, etc?) and put it back together with all new gaskets and seals. Here is my parts list. Please let me know if anything needs to be added or deleted. Fel Pro Engine gasket set - Part # FS8264PT1 (Does anyone know what exactly this includes? Or what else I will need) Cylinder head bolt set (are you supposed to replace these?) Fel Pro Intake Manifold gasket set Clevite timing set (Chain and both sprockets) Rear main seal (I was reading about a Ford 460 #E9AZ-6701-A seal, a Felpro BS 40032, or a TA performance neoprene seal, which would you recommend?) Underhood insulation kit Engine lifting bracket set Radiator drain petcock 12 x 3 air filter Alternator bracket (mine broke, has been welded, and broke again) "350-2" Air cleaner decal For the engine I need to know exactly what parts were painted red from the factory. Pictures 2004 May 2010 December 2010 December 2010
Welcome, cool story! Make sure you do the fuel system as well. I would drop the tank, clean it out, replace the fuel sock in the tank, blow out the fuel lines, replace the rubber parts on the lines, and then make sure you keep fuel stabil or something else in the fuel to keep it from going bad and turning to varnish. I would also replace the fuel filter and rebuild the carb. Not a bad idea to have a pro do the carb. Search for the "rear main seal" thread where I give directions on how to change the rear main. The ta and ford gaskets are the same thing. I would also make sure the oil pickup is free from debris, inspect the distributor gear.
Thanks for the reply! I did see your Rear main seal thread, thanks for the write up! If they are the same thing can the Ford one be purchased on Rock Auto? If so I'll go with that one as I'll already be ordering from them and can save on shipping. I rebuilt the carburetor myself about 5 years ago and just replaced the fuel filter again last year. I think dropping the tank is a good idea. What do you recommend to use to clean it out? I'll also add the fuel "sock" in the tank to my parts list. Good tip on the oil pickup. Also I forgot to mention that I replaced the spark plugs and wires back when I first got the car and I think I also replaced the distributer cap. One of my biggest questions is what is included in the Fel Pro Engine gasket set - Part # FS8264PT1. This is all the info I can find: FULL SETS (FS) are for upper and lower engine work combined, usually a complete overhaul. Int. manifold gskt. not incl.; Premium valve stem seals incl. Should I worry about the valve stem seals or just leave the inside of the heads alone? Also what on the original engine is painted red? Just the block and heads or the engine accessories too? I've seen both searching through the site.
The Ford 460 seal can be purchased anywhere. The gasket kit should have everything except the intake gasket. Just order the intake gasket seperate. I have found that the best setup is the TA composite intake gaskets an using a AM+P intake tray to keep oil off the intake bottom. The stock style intake gasket is tricky to get sealed right. Yes many have done it with no leaks and yes many have leaked so you have been advised LOL. If the engine is not smoking when you start it then likely no need for the valve stem seals. I am not sure what the CORRECT way to do it is.... I say paint the engine red, if you can not polish the alternator, timing cover etc then paint them red or black whatever you like best.
welcome. Where in Texas are you? Sean knows the 350 better than most. I have a bunch sitting around here. And nice to see another 4 door. I am about to retire ours.
Sean, I have to disagree with you on the steel intake gaskets.:bla: Those things work, and work well. I've even used them bent up and they seal perfect every time, but they do require some prep and the gasket surfaces must be super clean. The TA composite gaskets are very nice pieces though.
I searched Rock Auto for the three part numbers listed for the Ford seal (E9AZ-6701-A, D2VE-6701-AA, and JV618) and came up with this: VICTOR REINZ Part # JV618 {#C9AE6701A, C9AZ6701A, D2VE6701AA, E4TE6701AA} Rubber Category: Crankshaft Main Bearing Gasket Set Does that sound right? Ok, I don't really like everything red, it seems a little much for me. But I want to do it like it was from the factory. Thanks! I'm all the way out west, El Paso. Good to hear about both. I'll look into the TA one but most likely I'll use the Fel-Pro and get a really nice surface first. Thanks for all the replies guys, keep them coming!
I am not sure since the numbers will change over time. I do know that it is a ford 460 application and they did not change over the entire run of 460s i have been told. My local shop had it in stock...
I knew someone was going to say that... I have had good luck with the stock ones as well however the composite version is much more user freindly IMHO.... He asked for tips and the composite is a very safe bet. :TU:
Maybe you would like the alum. look for the intake? You could paint your iron one alum color? http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146604&d=1250655589 Then add some turbos and other shiny stuff! http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147994&d=1252115652 Here is another nice looking 350: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=206261&highlight=350+pics
Those all look great but I want to paint to like it was when it rolled out of the factory in 1971. I want it to look as original as possible, that's why I'm trying to figure out how it was painted from the factory. As far as the shinny stuff and turbocharged... that's my other car.
I use a 1 litre bottle of carb cleaner, 1 litre of trans fluid and a box of 100 BB's yes the type you shoot your brother with.... Hang the tank from the rafters in your shop and shake it around a bunch. drain the mix into a container and dispose of responsibly. :3gears:
Thats an interesting concoction. I might have to give it a try. I've been doing some research on the paint and it looks like everything was painted red from the factory including the water pump and even the fuel pump but for sure the intake manifold and timing cover. I'll be using Krylon 2114 which is high heat Buick Red.
well since you have it this far apart.....why not trade out the 2 barrel for a 4 barrel and stock intake? Bang for buck and still stock...... Scott
Just to clarify, ^^ thats not my engine, just a pic I found searching. If I change the carb then it's not really original though...
I just called and talked to Mike and TA Performance and he was very, very helpful! He recommended the standard steel intake manifold gasket as the composite can send oil into the PCV valve unless you make a shield for it. Said to inspect the bearings for copper showing and that if the rod caps have nuts and bolts instead of the cap screws you can pull them off to check the bearings and put them back on and re-torque without messing anything up. Recommended the neoprene rear seal as it would be easier to install then the rope seal with the crank still in the block. Suggested that I pour some solvent or even water into the intake and exhaust ports to see if the valves leak and recommended that I replace the intake valve stem seals while I've got everything out. Said it would also be a good idea to replace the timing chain and sprockets. New build list: 350 Gasket Set (TA_1705) 350 STOCK INTAKE GASKET (TA_1735) 340-350 REAR MAIN SEAL (TA_1515) 350 REPLACEMENT TIMING SET (TA_1521) Krylon Buick Red Engine Paint (2114) Paint for the brake master cylinder Paint for the engine bay Underhood insulation kit (OPGI) Engine lifting bracket set (OPGI) Radiator drain petcock (OPGI) 12 x 3 GM air filter (OBP) Alternator bracket (OBP) "350-2" Air cleaner decal (OBP)
Good tips! The only thing I have to add is that AM&P makes a cover for under the intake and you can also cut up an old intake section to cover the bottom of the intake.
I'm no expert so take my advice with a shot of bourbon. But, if I were that far into it I would replace all of the bearings with like size bearings and use plastigauge to check clearances even if you have nothing machined.. I could be way wrong though. My 88 jeep had badly worn mains and rods.. I pulled it apart and put new stock sizes in from the bottom 91K miles ago and all is still well..
I'm flying back home and the overhaul starts this weekend. We've got the hoist, stand, all the parts, and the paint all ready to go. I'll post pics and keep this thread updated as we go. Any last tips?
