I've tried the Differential ID at JDRace and it seems like it's a 10 bolt Full Size?! Doesn't make sense... so hoping you guys could help me out seeing what I have, as I'd love to give it posi and some good gears in the 3's since it's a peg leg currently. To the left of the housing are the codes... 12345(or 7) 87880 (or 87890) Below are pictures of the whole rear end (I was installing the new springs and shocks), the housing, and a pic kind of from the side. Haven't faintest about any of this. Anyone?
So, looks like you have an 8.2" rear. Just get the posi and 3.42 gear from Jim at JD Race and you are all set. Unless you want to move to an 8.5".
1968-70 Buick 8.2 10 bolt. Contact Monzaz and he will hook you up. It's more expensive to do the 8.2, but it is doable. You have the choice of 3.42 or 3.64 aftermarket gears.
yeah for the price of posi and gears for the 8.2, i could get a complete 8.5 hub to hub for cheaper so hmm
Yep same boat I'm in. I would say an advantage in getting an 8.5 is that you can swap out the whole thing and have almost no down time from enjoying the car, and the instant gratification of a posi and better gear ratio. I guess it could depend on whether originality is a concern of not.
That is what I did with my original OO 3.42 8.2 10 bolt rear. Got a peg leg 3.08 8.5 out of a 71 GS350. Had it built with 30 spline Moser axles, matching Eaton Posi, and 3.73 Yukon gears. When I swapped the rears, I unbolted the axles, pulled them out, wired up the backing plates and brakes, dropped the rear out, and bolted the new rear in. Installed the new axles, and my existing backing plates with brakes. Saved a lot of time not having to deal with the hydraulic lines and E Brake cables.
:gp: wow that is a great idea to pull and hang the brakes out of the way since bleeding them is so fun. :idea2: Did you have a new driveshaft ready also, or shorten the one you had?
