When I bought this GS the power windows worked well enough to get one window to go up and down a couple of times. But then we went and put a second window down, and now nothing, well except I have 2 windows partially down. I have only crawled under the dash to check the fuse, I just went and replaced it. But I still get nothing. Are there any fusible links or something else that controls all of the windows? All of your all's knowledge is appreciated! Thanks in advance! Troy
You mean the famous vin altered car? Yes, the famous outlaw car that I have. I would like for the windows to work when the guy gets it back.
Yes, they did The Indianapolis Police took the car originally to try and find the hidden Vins. But after they found the local prosecutor wouldn't take the case, they were done. But, I am working very closely with the Malcomb county police and prosecutor. They too have many many reasons this is a back burner case, but it is progressing albeit slowly. But, we are moving and things are going to come down pretty hard for this man. :af:
Power window woes Troy; The first thing I would check is for power to the master door switch. Sometimes the opening and closing of doors over 30+ years will break the wire inside the rubber protection boot. If there is sufficient power, the check the switch itself. Use a test light and check each output wire while operating the switch. If power is getting through the switch to each window position, then move on to each individual switch. If switch is defective, then use a piece of wire about 4-5 inches long to test the female master plug, ie: insert one end into power supply and other into each separate window contact. If this doesn't operate windows, then go to each individual switch. To test each separate switch, use test light to check for power to switch, you should have power with engine running, or igniton switch in the "on" position. If no electricity at switch, then you most likely have broken wire/wires between master control and individual switches. If power is available to each switch, then check ground from window motor to door, in fact check all ground connections. Each window motor is grounded to its respective location, the switch is only a reversable polarity control. If all else fails, check the window motors themselves. Thereis another active thread regarding window motor repair, sorry, I don't know how to post that thread here (not quite savvy enough). I doubt that all four window motors failed at once, more likely you have some sort of electrical gremlin playing with the wiring. I feel your pain, as I've had to chase down a few of these problems myself. Take your time, go methodically, and you should be able to repair this. You may need to do some re-wiring, so depending on whether it is a concours resto or daily driver, you have to decide if you will use correct color wires, in proper guage, or just use any proper guage wire. Good Luck,:TU: Keep us posted; Tom
Some things to remember in this case is that much of the provided power, (voltage) comes from normally closed switches. That is why I mentioned the switches and voltage drops. Even when a switch is not being used to operate a window, they are an integral part of the circuit. Try to find a wiring diagram; I can walk you through the repairs. Ray
I have an article on the site below covering the PW installation. My guess is the power relay is shot. It is located in the driver's kick panel. See the article for a pic and its location.
Thanks George! I was guessing that after the fuse, there had to be a relay or something of that nature that I could replace before doing all of the other testing. So, I will get right on trying to find that part. Thanks you very much George! So here is a start, Does someone have an extra power window relay they would like to part with? Troy
The relay is a standard relay and can be found on many GM cars and trucks. If you determine, the one in the car is bad. I can get you one. Let me know.
I finally worked on the windows I replaced the power relay with a brand new one. Guess what, nothing changed :ball: they still don't work. Again, can anyone give me some more opinions. If I'm reading this correctly from before, I need to verify power to the switch? Is there a way to do that easily? Also, after changing the relay, I tried to use the master switch and each individual switch at the window, nothing. I don't get a dimming of the lights or any indication that they are drawing power when the switch is activated. Thanks for your patients with me. Still very green at all of this stuff. Troy
Ok, sounds like the master power fuse is bad. Remove it from the fuse box and check it. If it is blown, make sure all windows were operational prior to it going bad. You may also have a short in a wire to one of the motors so you may want to check for that first. Otherwise, install a new fuse and see if it blows right away. If so, you need to do a short check on the entire harness!
fuse If this is the top left fuse in the fuse block, it is ok. I have already replaced that one with a new one. Even though the original wasn't blown. This fuse has Accessories, or something like that under the location. Does that sound right? Thanks George!!!!! Troy Edit was made, I originally said right not left. It is the left top fuse.
Still dont work I found a relay that appeared to be brand new. I found the old power windows relay under the drivers side kick panel and replaced it with this new relay. Still nothing is working. I really need to get these windows working ASAP. This 1970 Stage 1 clone car will be going on ebay in the coming weeks. Any other suggestions? :beer
Ok, sounds like no power at all at any point. Look at our site and read the article for PW installation. You will see a pink "turn on" wire. This wire goes from the "ign" terminal in the fuse box and turns on the relay when the key is in the "on" position. You should then have +12V to the relay from the large orange wire w/black tracer going to the master pw switch. You can remove the wiring connector from the back of the master pw switch to check for +12V from the orange wire w/black tracer terminal. If you have it, then you know the switch is bad. You can also check the other switches for the same voltage amount. Make sure your ground strap from the back of the pass head to the firewall (mounts to voltage regulator mounting screw) woven copper mesh, is in good condition. Maybe you have a bad ground. Would not expect to have all 4 motors go bad at once......so, you have a voltage problem. :TU:
