Thanks for the method and recommendations. I had purchased 2 sets of each, both the rubber and rope types. - RUBBER looks pretty and probably is a better bet if you can REMOVE THE CRANK. If you can not remove the crank completely, you will NEVER get a rubber seal in place. Loosening the cap bolts and letting the crank hang a little or a lot, does not create a big enough gap to slide the new one in place. You see, the rubber seal is slightly taller and slightly harder than the term "rubber" would leave you to believe. I have no doubt that they are a great sealing material, once crushed properly to fit, but I will never find out. For until I remove my crank completely out, which I am not doing, you CAN NOT install them properly. For you see, the 2 side gaps, where the seal first goes into the case groove, and where it finally comes out of the groove on the other side of the crank, never get wide enough, from crank dropping, that will not damage the new seal. The 2 gaps created at the sides of the journal are too narrow, regardless of how far the crank is suspended. In order for the rubber seal to have a wide enough gap to install it without destroying it, the crank has to be almost removed. For even though the gap at the top of the crank is wider by how much you suspend it out of position, the gap at the two sides of the crank stays relatively the same distance from the crank, until almost removal (which is impossible, due to the timing chain cover and timing chain in the front. In the rear of the block, I have removed the transmission and ring gear for two purpose; 1) for crank dropping ability and 2) for access to slide the oil pan out rearward). The two side clearance distances don't really open up until the crank is severely out of position (Basically removed, which is impossible while the block maintains position, pinning the crank in place). - ROPE seal can be done whether just repacking existing rope seal as was done and excellently described prior by 1973gs, THANK YOU OR replacing the seal with a new seal. Drop the crank enough to increase the groove tunnel dimension around the blind or back side of the crank as much as a 1/4-3/8 inch at the rear journal. I used both of the old 2 seals sides of the existing seal for the top repacking. I used about 4 feet of 30 pound test with a #12 trout egg hook, knotted the hook in the middle and pulled both strands at once around the crank to help pull it through the narrow groove opening around to the other side. I embedded the hook through the first 1/2 inch of the old seal and tried to pull it around the crank. You need to use a very small eyeglass type screwdriver, the blunter, the better. THE TECHNIQUE: as you slightly maintain pull tension on the fishing line hook which is imbedded in the seal, you use the screwdriver to work the seal into the tight gap, pushing a little bit in at a time in a round and round fashion. If you maintain slight even pressure on the string line, the seal will appear to pull itself through, you are just basically just tucking it in a little at a time and helping to force it through the narrow side gap pinch point. Once the screwdriver is eventually worked around and around, while applying steady pressure on the string, the hook eventually appears on the other side, and the seal is in place. Just work the hook out and pack it using 1973gs directions. I repeat, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO INSTALL THE RUBBER TYPE SEALS WITHOUT TOTALLY REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT OR DAMAGING THE SEALS. and YOU CAN INSTALL NEW ROPE SEALS OR REPACK OLD SEALS WITH ONLY REMOVING THE OIL PAN, NOT THE CRANK.
Thanks all for the method and recommendations. I had purchased 2 sets of each, both the rubber and rope types. - RUBBER looks pretty and probably is a better bet if you can REMOVE THE CRANK. If you can not remove the crank completely, you will NEVER get a rubber seal in place. Loosening the cap bolts and letting the crank hang a little or a lot, does not create a big enough gap to slide the new one in place. You see, the rubber seal is slightly taller and slightly harder than the term "rubber" would leave you to believe. I have no doubt that they are a great sealing material, once crushed properly to fit, but I will never find out. For until I remove my crank completely out, which I am not doing, you CAN NOT install them properly. For you see, the 2 side gaps, where the seal first goes into the case groove, and where it finally comes out of the groove on the other side of the crank, never get wide enough, from crank dropping, that will not damage the new seal. The 2 gaps created at the sides of the journal are too narrow, regardless of how far the crank is suspended. In order for the rubber seal to have a wide enough gap to install it without destroying it, the crank has to be almost removed. For even though the gap at the top of the crank is wider by how much you suspend it out of position, the gap at the two sides of the crank stays relatively the same distance from the crank, until almost removal (which is impossible, due to the timing chain cover and timing chain in the front. In the rear of the block, I have removed the transmission and ring gear for two purpose; 1) for crank dropping ability and 2) for access to slide the oil pan out rearward). The two side clearance distances don't really open up until the crank is severely out of position (Basically removed, which is impossible while the block maintains position, pinning the crank in place). - ROPE seal can be done whether just repacking existing rope seal as was done and excellently described prior by 1973gs, THANK YOU OR replacing the seal with a new seal. Drop the crank enough to increase the groove tunnel dimension around the blind or back side of the crank as much as a 1/4-3/8 inch at the rear journal. I used both of the old 2 seals sides of the existing seal for the top repacking. I used about 4 feet of 30 pound test with a #12 trout egg hook, knotted the hook in the middle and pulled both strands at once around the crank to help pull it through the narrow groove opening around to the other side. I embedded the hook through the first 1/2 inch of the old seal and tried to pull it around the crank. You need to use a very small eyeglass type screwdriver, the blunter, the better. THE TECHNIQUE: as you slightly maintain pull tension on the fishing line hook which is imbedded in the seal, you use the screwdriver to work the seal into the tight gap, pushing a little bit in at a time in a round and round fashion. If you maintain slight even pressure on the string line, the seal will appear to pull itself through, you are just basically just tucking it in a little at a time and helping to force it through the narrow side gap pinch point. Once the screwdriver is eventually worked around and around, while applying steady pressure on the string, the hook eventually appears on the other side, and the seal is in place. Just work the hook out and pack it using 1973gs directions and Smartin video post. I repeat, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO INSTALL THE RUBBER TYPE SEALS WITHOUT TOTALLY REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT OR DAMAGING THE SEALS. and YOU CAN INSTALL NEW ROPE SEALS OR REPACK OLD SEALS WITH ONLY REMOVING THE OIL PAN, NOT THE CRANK.
Repack the top half of the seal and stick a new one in the cap…send it I’ve done it at least 6 times in the last 2 years and none have failed or failed to stop the leak.
Mark, Kudos to you. I tried it 4 times, none made it through. After I was all done though, I looked back and I guess I could of used the cap side to install a rubber seal first, and torque it down to get the proper crush on the new seal, which I would of hoped would of made the new seal profile shorter and might not have gotten scraped at every installation attempt. see picture.
Smartin, Thanks for the confirmation, yeah, that's seems to be the only way to go. If I would of pre crushed a rubber seal first and then tried to slide it in, maybe I could of done it then. Maybe after doing it a couple of times I would become more skilled, but the re-packing method worked great for me, first time out.
Did you rotate the crank as you tried to fish the rubber seal into the block? That always helped the time I did it.
Greg, Thanks for the question, but actually , its wasn't going to fit regardless. The seals are too tall for the slot they are being initially being pushed into. Once there is a 'no clearance " condition for the install, (possibly hanging the crank further than I did), the rubber seals probably work very well, but I can not attest to their performance. Job is done.
HAHA! I have sold cars because I was tired of chasing leaks. Never a Buick though but I did part with a 340 4-speed Cuda once for that very reason.
