Hello there. I have a 1968 Buick Skylark convertible with the 350 2 Barrel, and there are a few small engine problems that I have questions about. I have only had the car for about 8 months, and have been driving it for about 2. Ever since I've had it, its had a run-on problem. I'm under the impression that it could be a timing issue, or that there may be carbon build up in the combustion chamber, but is there anyway to fix this by myself? I have been running high octane gas in it for the past few weeks, and have seem some improvement (sometimes it will start to run on for a second or two and then stop). Does this mean it is mainly a carbon build up issue? As well, the other problem I have been having is a stalling issue. Whenever I start driving (after it has been sitting for at least 6 hours or so), it will stall out whenever I give it gas after turning a corner. I'll usually slow down, turn, and then go to accelerate out of the corner, and then it will stall out unless I really floor it. I have noticed however, that if i don't give it the throttle at all after a corner, until it's straightened out for a bit that it won't stall. It will only do this for the first 10km or so however, and then it drives fine. This may not even be a problem, it could be normal, but I won't know until someone tells me haha. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Kyle
I would believe carb needs a rebuild.that could be both issues. You can get a small spray bottle and mist soapy water down carb while its running. Some people use trans fluid for this.you will need to bring rpm up some otherwise engine will quit. But before that chech to see if choke is pulling off completely and check you timing. Some advance is OK but nothing more than 16 at idle I'm my opinion.
I would start by telling us what the initial timing i set at.... Use a timing light to check if you do not know.... I fought a run on issue with my 76 way back in the day and it ended up being the idle speed being too high as well as too much initial timing...
Thanks for all the quick replies. I'll try and get a buddy of mine to give me a hand checking the timing in the next few days, if that would be the most likely culprit. But it hasn't had a real good all round tune-up in a long, long time, so it could also be the carb. As for the wiring, it wouldn't surprise me either, as its quite a mess. I'll check the timing and get back to you. Thanks for the help! Kyle
The run on sounds like possibly carbon deposits, if the idle is set correctly. Is the dashpot still there? Sometimes they fail, and people just set the idle up to compensate. That can make for a high idle. Timing is a moot point, if the ignition actually shuts off. So, if there is a stray voltage supply, the car can continue to run. Stalling coming out of a corner sounds more like the float level is low- or, too high. Probably too low, though, based on the symptoms. As the fuel sloshes to one side, the fuel pump shot may be reduced. Does it sputter more on left or right turns? I take it that it is the stock Rochester 2GC?
The correct distributor for that engine should be part number 1111330. The distributor part number is stamped into the circumference just below the cap parting line. That car is 46 years old, and the distributor may have been changed at some point. If that is the case, then the stock timing specs are no longer valid. Not all distributor are the same. Lots of guys simply set the initial timing ignoring the fact that timing changes the instant you step on the gas. In any case, that 1111330 distributor has between 26 and 30* of mechanical advance at 4200 RPM. Initial timing is listed as 0* (TDC). It may tolerate as much as 6* of initial timing, but I would find someone who knows how to set total timing. Set the total, and the initial timing will be what it has to be for that particular distributor and the total timing you choose to run. 32* total without vacuum advance is a good number to set it to. This is my timing thread, have a look. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?63475-Power-Timing-your-Buick-V8 BTW, the best money you can spend on your car is a purchase of a 1968 Buick chassis manual. They are available original, in reprint, and even on CD ROM. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Buick-...230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8c950cae http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...=1968+buick+chassis+manual&_sacat=0&_from=R40 http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_3068 http://www.gearheadcafe.com/servlet/the-510/1968-Buick-shop-manual,repair/Detail
I showed it to my friend, and he suggested that before I bother messing with the timing, I should give it a good tune-up, as it really needs it. I neglected to add in my original post that the engine will stall just when sitting there after startup, and then after a few minutes, its fine. Then when driving, it will stall equally on left and right turns for about 10km or so. I guess this would indicate that the problem only occurs when the engine is cold, and until its been driven enough to warm up. My friend suggested that this could be an issue with the choke. I'll try and do some work and get back to you.
Here is my two cents worth. Since it has sat for a while, more than likely the accelerator pump inside the carburetor is damaged from age and fuel, and the carburetor needs a rebuild. This is probably causing the stalling at idle and after a turn. the engine run on you described could be from: 1. idle set too high 2. poor quality fuel 3. Initial timing set too high for quality of fuel.
