Would a '67 Wildcat with AC have come with a 3 core or a 4 core radiator from the factory. Mine has a 3 core radiator in it now and I'm wondering if it is correct as I'm running about 230 degrees when I try to drive on the highway or in town. All new thermostat, fan clutch, fan, water pump. Radiator is getting flow tested now and thermostat and fan clutch were both swapped and retested with same issues. Even if this 3 core radiator is re cored and operating properly is it enough cooling? Don't want to sink a bunch of cash into a radiator that won't do the job. Engine is a basically stock '71 455. Thanks, Brian
The Buick Big Block was always tough on cooling systems. The Wildcat would have had at least a 3 row rad with A/C, the heavy duty option was 4 row. I had my 66 Electra upgraded to a 4 row equivalent a few years ago; - it has the same width as a 3 row but the cooling of a 4. My Wildcat still has the factory 2 row in it, and it gets hot idling in traffic on very hot days. As long as I've ever driven BBBs, they've always run hot when in proper or slightly better than normal tune. Dial it back it'll run a little cooler, but won't be quite as responsive. These cooling systems definitely are want for more rad. Buick even acknowledged the problem in their 1970 advertising; - "a new heavier cooling system with overflow that should never, ever overheat".
Thanks for the reply. I told the radiator shop to stop work on the 3 core and I'm going to look into a bolt in aluminum radiator if one exists. My main concern is being able to drive anywhere or sit idling anywhere and not have to worry about my temp gauge. Thanks again, Brian
From what I've heard over the years, the best route has been to use your old radiator side tanks and then rebuild/recore. Sizing/mounting of aftermarket can often get kinda cobbed up-good luck.
I have been interested in upgrading the radiator in my Wildcat. Same issues runs hot at idle and when cruising on the highway, on a hot day I'm between the 200-210 range. What temps do you normally run with the 66 electra and the 4 core radiator? thanks Kevin
Not sure what I get for temperature, (don't actually have a gauge) but on a very hot day the 66 Electra doesn't get "hot" anymore. I also put in a modern replacement (aluminum core and plastic tanks) rad in my 67 Wildcat, and it did make a difference; - I was able to drive at high speeds and still could idle in traffic on a very hot day (95F+) whereas with the old one, it would cook after 10 minutes and it would flicker "hot" on steep climbs. On the run into Victoria. I had the heater on full-blast to help cool and I cooked my foot. On the way back home with the new rad, it was a hotter day out so I put the heater on to help and it was bearable, I didn't burn my foot, so that tells me the heat dissipation with the new rad is better. I'm going to get my original rad redone with a modern core, keeping the old tanks primarily for appearances.
I can't get by without gauges-as I recall the OE hot light switches on way high=you are already too hot.
Dan, I agree 100%, I have water and oil pressure gauges installed. Water gauge has been checked for accuracy. I have since installed an aluminum 2 core radiator made by Northern. It was almost a bolt in with slight trimming of the core support and top hold down bracket. Running cooler now but, I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet as I am in the process of moving.
Yeah, I know, I'm an idiot for trusting the OE stuff. I replaced the sending units years ago, and when I tested them prior to install they worked to temperature. Once I decide which car will be the long distance driver and which will be the show car, I'll put a set in the driver. The show car gets nothing to break up the interior, I've always hated the look of a trio gauge set sticking in the way somewhere. Invariably I always knock my shins on them and break them loose. Right now that looks like the driver will be the Electra, it already has a totally rebuilt driveline. The Wildcat will have to wait until it gets rebuilt.
