Need your help. The left rear wheel bearing of my 67 Buick Special 4dr is toasted (apparently). How can I remove/exchange this bearing? Steps, tools required etc. Secondly (I've ssen severals threads re the different diameters of GS vs Skylark vs wagon) what is the correct part my number for my bone stock Special. Thanks Patrick
The special SHOULD have the regular RW507CR pretty common bearing. Removal - Might be easier to take it some place if you are completely unfamiliar already... -Remove the axle shaft -Put the axle in a vise -Cut the retaining collar to weaken the ring and then strike it with a chisel (steel Cold chisel NOT a wood working chisel...lol ) until the ring snaps and comes off. -Press the bearing off the axle bearing...or you can also cut this bearing off too same way you did the retaining collar ring. -Clean and inspect the axle seal and bearing press surface... INSTALL- -You will need a 12 ton press minimum to reinstall the bearing and retaining collar ring (20 ton or more is best) -Install the retaining plate , lube up the press surface of the axle and the inner axle bearing surface to prevent binding when pressing on the bearing... then install the bearing using a collar slightly larger than the shaft diameter... an old inner pinion bearing race works excellent for this (89449 cage and bearings removed)... press it on till it seats against the 90 degree stop. -Now do the same with the retaining collar... THIS COLLAR will be a much tighter press and is the reason for the 20 ton press being better. TIP-Yes we do the press on parts individually as doing both at the same time in the instructions really is tough to figure out if your having a problem with the press fit etc. (you can not figure out which piece is giving you the trouble IF there is trouble.) Jim JD
Jim, Many thanks. 12-20tons press sound a lot indeed. Love to do it on my own. What (tool) are you using to deploy 20tons? If not feasable I might give it to a professional though I might well come back to this topic when spring comes and I actually get back to working on my Buick. Need to source the replacement part first. Patrick
A 20 ton press... Hydraulic floor model...lol. You will have to hit your local shop for that. NO OTHER WAY. If you have a Habor Friehgt in Germany you can get one for 199.00usd REALLY- do not try this if your not going to use a hydralic press. You will just ruin the bearing etc. YOU can remove the parts WHICH you should try to do as MOST shops will hack up the axles with the cut off wheel or even try to use torches which is a MAJOR NO NO. You just have to cut through the metal enough to weaken the press fit...SOMETIMES the retaining collar will snap...you have to cut almost all the way through. Jim J D
Weather has turned to spring over here. So I am willing to get going on my rear bearing. My dad has successfully done it on a '73 Caprice so we figured we give it a shot. Does anybody happen to have pirctures of what Jim explained above. I checked on the internet / youtube and there are apparently several different ways where and how to put the bearing, so I want to understand what a '67 GM A-body axle will look like? Is the 73 full size Chevy axle the same (construction wise / size) as my 67 A-body? This is what I bought. Is this all? Being bearing and retainer? What about the "seal". Do I also need this seal? Apologies for the amount of questions but I am still respectful of this work ahead of me. Thanks Patrick
Yes the seal would be a GOOD idea depending on how bad the failure was. PLEASE check the diameter of the axle where the bearing presses on to make sure you will have the proper press again. 1.382... ?? I think. Some one doubler check the manual on that. Pictured is the seal 8594S I believe is the part number...I have them if you need. Jim JD
The Chevy axle is a c-clip type, so it installs (and removes) differently. The Buicks can actually be removed by just lifting the car off the ground (you don't have to dig into the rear end "pumpkin". I have some pictures to share with you to show what you are getting into, but I can't upload them or even reuse my old pictures since the site upgrade :rant:, so PM me and I will gladly send them.
Thanks @Jim: ohhhhhh. The shop over here did not mention it so I didn't buy it. I haven't taken the axle apart so I will have to see what the seal looks like. uzzled: Or is your capital GOOD a hint that I will have to replace it anyway? If that is the case the I would postpone and get the seal first. @Joe: PM sent. Patrick
It all depends on how old the seal is in the housing... Could be ok but for the price if 6.50 I think doing it is a safty that you will not need to go in again. Jim
Thank you Joe for the pictures and the description which are really helpful. As my daily driver urgently required my attention this weekend Ihave enough time and want to be on the safe side and also get the seals you and Jim mentioned. @Jim: I would PM if you are willing to ship intl.
Shipping and int'l is very common for us. We ship complete rears over seas. Just did one for Norway 2 days ago. Jim
Maybe a good idea to share the description and pictures here; it was Joe's intention to do it anyhow :TU:
Please find attached Joe's description and the related pics. Thanks again Joe&Jim. --- I dont have any good pictures of a c-clip (Chevy) setup, but the biggest difference is that you have to remove the rear end cover and remove a retainer bolt and the c-clips to get the axles out messy! When you get the four bolts off of your axle you may be lucky enough to just give the axle a tug and it will pop out. If not, you may need to strategically use a crow bar to coax it out but it shouldnt be too hard. Youll see from the axle picture that there are three parts attached to the housing (1) the mounting flange, (2) the bearing, & (3) the bearing retainer. This is where the 20-ton press comes into play getting the bearing and retainer onto the axle. Please heed Jims (monzaz) warning about removing the old bearings. I took mine to a shop and they nicked the axle when they used a grinding wheel to remove the retainer. Youll see from the 10 bolt rear picture that the drum brake backing plate is sandwiched between the axle tube such that the installation step when you put it all back together is (1) hold the brake backing plate against the axle tube, (2) slide the axle assembly into place, and (3) attach the four bolts to keep it all together. The only additional part that Jim didnt mention is the flange gaskets. You can see the remnants of one of these in the axle tube picture. I have now taken three rear ends apart (64, 65, 67), and they all had these gaskets - one on each side of the brake backing plate. I think they help keep water out so the bearings dont rust to the housing. And theyre very cheap! --- Patrick
What I do is to put the axel in a vise and then,,,, wrap a rag around the old bearing to catch the flying metal shards and then smack it with a 2 lb hammer to break the outer race off.... next,,,, I take a cold chisel and heavily score the inner race and the retainer in a line parallel to the axle.... that makes it easy to get those pieces off.... and always, without fail replace the grease seal... if you dont the old seal will fail and that will destroy the brake shoes.....
