Wow! :laugh: :beer Look what I just found today.....Engine serial numbers. Yep! Its a matching numbers car. YIPPY!!!
Staples The rubber parts look sweet. I read you used the 18 guage wire as staples. Did you match up to existing holes in the inner fenders where the old staples were, or what? Walk me thru the process. Thanks. Michael Dyer Clinton, Ohio
Banburi, After using Por 15 and painting the fenderwells, the old staple holes were pretty much plugged up with paint, so I drilled new holes. The guys at the factory were'nt to carefull about spacing the staples out so they just got stapled anywhere and anyhow they happened to hold. By drilling new holes, I was able to take the time to space the staples out and put them in straight so they look alot nicer. The backside of the rubber mat is ribbed so I put that towards the inside so it wont show as much. It was only $1.78 / foot and I only needed 1 foot. I traced them out from the old ones and cut them with a pair of scissors. This is obvoiusly much easier to do with the fenderwells out of the car! :TU:
nice touch with the replacing of that fender rubber, ive seen too many nice cars with rips/tears and holes in that rubber, or people whom have painted over them, i love that idea of using rubber mats, as soon as i get arround to the engine compartment of my car i will keep this in mind :TU:
Update: well as long as I have it apart this far, I've decided to go ahead and replace all the front end A-arm bushings, upper/lower balljoints. Never done this before and it wasnt to bad getting the parts apart. Now how do i get the bushings out of the A arms? I must need some kind of a press? Maybe the local Suspension/Alignment shop is better suited for this job.
you'll need a press to get the new ones in. In order to get the old ones out - an air hammer is the best method (from my limited experience). Compress the bushing from the middle - between the support bosses. That will both loosen and make the diameter a bit smaller. Then, knock the bushing out by wedging a chisel bit under the bushing tang, hammering it out using tang/lip as your impact point, and rotating around the edge to work it out evenly. If you don't have an air hammer - maybe a vice, a ten-pound, and a big screwdriver would suffice! Looking good though!
Wouldnt ya know it.... Advanced Auto Parts sold me the wrong bushings. They said a 67 and 68 used the same bushings when they cross referenced the numbers. They dont look the same as the ones in the A arms. (different size and diameter) Looks like I'll be taking them back and looking for a new supplier. Anyone have Any suggestions? I was looking at Summit Racing Catalog and it looks liike they have a kit for about $175.00.
my suspension kit arrived today from PST. And I put a second coat of paint on the engine. Shes starting to look pretty sweet now
The suspension kit has everything...even more than I need but I'll use them all and make everything new. All for $159.00 * Upper Ball Joints (2) * Lower ball joints (2) * Outer tie rod ends (2) * Upper A arm bushings (4) * Lower A arm bushings (4) * Rubber Bumpers under top A arm (2) * Rubber Bumpers on sides of Lower A arm (2) * Sway Bar bushings (2) * Sway Bar End link kit (2) I spent $200 at Advance Auto and didnt get the bumpers or upper ball joints or tie rod ends. They are getting it all back. I stopped in to Summit Racing in Tallmadge, OH (Akron) yesterday while passing thru on I-76. What an awsome place, I could have spent hrs in there but could only spare 30 minutes. Anyway.... I picked up and electronic unit to convert my distributor. No more points or condensor to worry about. Also got a new coil and plug wires.
I got alot done today. Things are going back together. I took my A- Arms to the suspension shop to get the bushings pressed in so in the meantime I put engine components back on. :beer
Now I cant remember where that throttle return spring hooks up. Dont ya hate that. ou: can sombody help with a pic? or explain. ou: Thanks
Spring The spring hooks on the bracket off the firewall up to the hole in the arm near the clevis. Do you know that is the wrong type carb body for a 67? Fuel inlet is from the side that year. Clyde
