i had this car for awhile just sittin and the car needs an engine rebuild badly. It only goes up to 90 and it takes awhile for it to get there. Does any one know a really good engine rebuild kit that no one has had problems with. How much? Does the doc recommend any I know he sells on eBay but there is no price I'm gunna email him later.
I agree with Jim,,,, first, do a real good check of the engine... you dont mention smoking, or oil consumption.... first before you do anything run a compression test... that will tell you if the engine can be made to run right... you need a min. of 90 psi on all cyls... and you dont need over a 10% variation between cyls... I have seen cars with brand new engines that would not run 90 mph untill the tune was sorted out....:eek2: timing is very, very important,, you need a strong spark at the right time to get the power from any engine... check the slack in the timing chain and gears and the operation of the distributer/mechanical advance/vacume advance/condition of the wires, dist cap, rotor, spark plugs... all that,,, first.... as to the ''kits''... I do not use them.... I pick and choose all the parts... go for name brands,,, trw, melling, fed mogle ect.. I would stay away from enginetech ,,, I had a lifter from them that wiped out a cam and when I rockwell tested it, it was the same hardness as mild steel.... not good... keep us posted.... Doc
x3 - Doc and Jim are right. before you spend a dime on parts, figure out what's wrong with your motor first.....
holding your foot on the floor for a long period of time will really tax your fuel pump. If its original I'd replace that or at least see if its putting out the proper volume.
First off welcome to the board. Fill out your signature and profile. Post up a pic of that Riv. BTW the 465 is the Tq of the motor not the CI
Welcome to v8Buick - as many others have stated, find out what the problem or condition is, so you can choose the right solution. o No:
And like Doc wrote check the dist. mechanical advance, make sure it isn't rusted stuck in the no advance position because the only advance you will get if that happens is the initial. The car will run very sluggish if this is the case. Also check to make sure the choke isn't sticking closed either. Like everyone is saying check tune of engine before diving into the abyss of what rebuilding can be. GL Derek
Hi You said it's been sitting for a while. This makes me think, The fuel pump could need a rebuild (the diaphragm may be deteriorated) Timing could be an issue.. or plugs ... Check it out further , before you get the rebuild kit... Good Luck :TU:
What is the car doing at 90 ??? running smooth ? missing or ....... lets start with the basics... first , check out the fuel delivery system.... all the way from the tank to the intake manifold.... then check out the engine electrical tune, including how strong the coil fires.... point dwell if it still has points and condenser... then check the air intake system... and the exhaust system... on the older cars Buick put exhaust head pipes that were a pipe within a pipe and the inner pipe would burn out and then fold over inside the outer pipe and you could not see it .... also the exhaust flapper valve could be stuck shut.... and like already said,, a rat nest in the exhaust system... a crushed pipe... lots of possibilities.... just use a system and do a methodical check... before you start tearing into the engine.... could save you a lot of time/effort/money....
Agreed Jim. Years ago I bought a '62 Chrysler 300H with the 380 HP dual-quad 413. On the drive home I took it as fast as it would go - 93 mph. I did an all-day and 2/3 of the night tune up on it including replacing the vacuum advance diaphragm, adjusting the valves, rebuilding both AFBs, replacing all vacuum hoses and the plug wires (and the plugs, of course). Bottom line - on the road test, I drove it to 142 and a tweak mph before I ran out of road. It was still accelerating when I had to lift. Find out what is wrong first.
