Check the coil, and the balast resistor. This sounds like an ignition problem, the motor gets a little hot, and the coil starts to cut out. After eliminating the ignition, then go to the fuel side. Check the fuel pump, and the accelerator pump in the carb. If these are both pretty old, then they probably need to be replaced. If the problem is one that "just started suddenly" and hasn't been coming on for a long period of time, then chances are it's a simple problem with either the ignition or the fuel delivery. Start there...
No, start with the valve in the brake booster. It's only a 1 minute job to take it out, check if the valve is still closing by blowing at one end, followed by sucking. It's a one-way valve, if it's no longer working like that, replace it with a new one :TU:
Thanks for all of your input guys, I brought it to a mechanic and he actually suggested most of the things you guys are saying, including boiling gas. My fuel filter is attached by a metal bracket that is bolted to my intake manifold, which could be heating up the fuel filter and boiling the gas, the only thing that makes me skeptical is that the fuel filter is plastic. i am going to relocate it and replace it anyways. I am also going to replace most of the ignition if that doesnt work. I will take a look at that brake booster valve and post back what i find. What do you guys think about a failing torque converter? is that likely? I have a 401 with a th350 (i bought that really expensive adapter plate on the internet)
Okay; - that car would still have a Dynaflow in it, and if the linkages go out of adjustment it'll feel like it's slipping. Some things to consider; when was the last time it had the fluid changed? Has the carb been off the car recently? My understanding of the Dynaflow (while limited) is that the reverse band usually lets go first before anything else does, I've never heard of a torque converter going on one. Gummed up accumulators, yes, but never a torque converter. That said, if it's an original with over 100,000 plus miles on it, it probably wouldn't hurt to give it a rebuild. My vote would be to rebuild the Dynaflow and forget about the 350 TH. I'm not sure a stock 350 TH would be able to withstand the Buick torque without some modifications. A better route to go if you're sold on a TH would be to use a 400 out of a 65-66 Buick, with the proper crankshaft adapters. It might actually be cheaper to fix the Dynaflow than to make all the necessary mods to make a TH fit. There are people on this board with far more knowledge than I have abot that topic. Erik's idea of the brake booster giving you grief is a good one and usually overlooked, but if it's leaking the car wouldn't idle very well at all either, in fact it would run like a toilet. What I have seen happen to older nailheads is an intake manifold gasket failure. The old metal ones tend to rust out at the tabs. If you feel that a vacuum leak is causing the problem, run the car up (to idle) and spray some carb cleaner (very carefully and have a fire extinguisher handy) around the carb base, and around the manifold to head areas. If the car quits, then you have a vacuum leak. I would only do this after eliminating the ignition as a potential problem source. Oh yes, don't ever use ether or starting fluid to source vacuum leaks, unless you enjoy pyrotechnics.
Suggested MOST? He's guessing! You have just met a parts changer. Find a mechanic who will take the time to diagnose it and tell you what's wrong before you throw a mountain of money at the problem.
I agree with John, If it was a vacuum leak, it would be present at all times. The 63 brake boosters don't have the check valve like the 64's do. There is also no ignition balast resistor. Take it to a mechanic. Chris
Guess I misread the previous post about the TH 350; - if you have that in the car, then chances are you're right, the torque converter is failing. TH 350 (stock) will not stand up to a Buick's torque. Take the car to a real mechanic who still understands those cars, not a modern plug-and-play guy, and get it properly figured out.
Keep it simple - fuel, air, and spark. Does it start hard after it stalls? Is the choke fully opening? Have vacuum leaks been positively eliminated as a potential cause? If the carburetor is original and has composite floats, that could be a possible problem. Some of the early composite floats didn't like unleaded gasoline. Something to think about - even if the car had brass floats originally, the carb. could have been overhauled or replaced. Do not throw parts at this (or any) car. Solid diagnosis by someone who knows what he/she is doing will find the problem.
