1956 buick 425 nailhead fab ?s

Discussion in 'Classic Buicks' started by kyle56, May 8, 2012.

  1. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    has anyone done this as of right now i cut the passenger side frame mount and moved it foward 7/8" and i made a set of new motor mounts in the first picture and i also bought a set of universial motor mount from speedway. i guess the big question is am i headed in the right direction? and i am wondering how do i find the right degree to set the motor and tranny so i can fab up a new tranny crossmember. thanks ahead of time for all the help
    kyle
    ps if it helps i am using the st 400 tranny that came with the motor and runnimg a ford 9" rear
     
  2. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    tn.jpg tn22.jpg
    sorry i forgot the pictures the second pic are the motor mounts i got from speedway
     
  3. Roberta

    Roberta Buick Berta

  4. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    That's beautiful That's how I'm doing mine but instead of black I doing Ford 2011 Kola blue metallic
     
  5. 56buickboy

    56buickboy Well-Known Member

    The engine mounts are looking great Kyle. I am also fitting a 425 into a 56 but am a few steps behind you. I was thinking of using the 425 style Riviera engine mounts originally and / or modifying the 322 engine mounts to suit. I like the look of the speedway conversion and moving the frame mount to suit.

    Using this type of mount also eliminates the chance of the original 56 style, or 64-66 mount splitting from torque twist, as a bolt holds this one all together.

    I would set the engine / trans so it is level on top of the inlet manifold (carb mounting surface) and at a height which gives clearance above the front crossmember to remove the oil pan if required, yet still clearing steering box and transmission tunnel. I have mine mocked up like that at the moment.

    The trans mount on the SP400 can easily be shimmed on a crossmember to get the height you need. I see you have drilled more holes in the front cross member to access the mount bolt. Keep up the good work.

    Im sure if I've over looked something others will add their 5 cents worth. :laugh:

    Ross
     
  6. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

  7. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    I used the same mounting system when I installed the 425 Nailhead in my Chevy pickup. I like it very much. I agree with keeping the carburetor mounting surface on the intake manifold level. Remember that the transmission crossmember on the stock '56 takes the thrust of the rear wheels. With an open driveline, you can go a lot lighter on the transmission crossmember - I hate unnecessary weight. I see that you have wooden blocks on top of the concrete blocks supporting the car; That's better then not, but I'd still be happier to see the concrete blocks go away. I would like you to live long enough to finish that beautiful project.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  8. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    Thanks john for the tranny mount I will be using inch and a half square tube I got laying around with 3/16 plate to mount to the frame as well as under the mount
     
  9. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    well i got the heads and intake on the motor today and put it in place ans im gonna have to cut the tacks on the motor mounts i made to drop the front of the engine down as you can see ........ i also put the power steering pump back in place to see if i was going to have an issue and it is just barely touching the exhaust manifold...... any suggestions? do block hugger headers suck in a lot ill put up a pic of the pump tomorrow
     

    Attached Files:

  10. 56buickboy

    56buickboy Well-Known Member

  11. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Ross it does help. My only question would be if We mill some off the steering box mount wouldn't it move the whole column out of line
     
  12. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    Regarding leveling the intake manifold.

    I see the spirit level. But how many other factors are going to effect "level"?

    Some of you may know, I am a surveyor. It is not often that an automobile will encounter a level surface outside of a shop or garage. And, many garages and shops have a pitched floor.
     
  13. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    Bulldog you are correct I don't think the car will ever sit exactly level for the motor to be level but I am sure the closer the better the other reason I need to lower the front of the motor because I need to drop the tranny end more to get the drive shaft through the X frame so it doesn't hit the top of it when I hit a bump or anything like that
     
  14. nineteenfifty5

    nineteenfifty5 Well-Known Member

  15. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    That makes sense to me.
    Thanks for that explanation
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2012
  16. kyle56

    kyle56 Well-Known Member

    Thanks 55 ...........for anyone that is looking for some extra info a 57-61 364 nailhead driver side exhaust manifold will mostlikly be the fix for the clearance issue probably gonna see if Carmen. Faso has one he lives right around the corner from me
     
  17. 56buickboy

    56buickboy Well-Known Member

    Kyle, I'm not sure that all 57 - 61 drivers side manifolds will work. It looks like the 58 is a higher profile at the firewall end of the head than the 59. Both may work but Im not sure. The 64 / 65 original manifold looks to be about the same height as the 59. Hopefully someone else can confirm, or maybe you after you have tried them. Great that Carmen Faso is just around the corner.

    Milling the steering box mount 1/8" would move the steering column slightly off line, but I dont think it would be enough to notice or cause any issues. I am looking to upgrade the box anyway.

    Ross
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page