$15k to build my 72

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by SCAR, May 20, 2004.

  1. SCAR

    SCAR New Member

    Ok guys I have a perfect condition complete 72 skylark custom and 15k to build it (mines paint and interior) but here my thing I have only really done work on my 92 F body I am macanicy inclined but have never really built any cars, just bolt on aftermarket stuff.

    72 skylark all there crome in new condition and in great shape no bodywork needed been stored for the past 24 years in a heated barn (long story on why).
    The motor is a 455 out of a 70 wildcat (have origanal 350 but blown)
    So guys what I need is a blue print on what to build. If you had 15k to spend what would you do I am looking for everything from disk brake swap (front and rear) new rear end,new trans, to springs,bushings,motor build,exuast,rims n tires, all the way everything from a frame off. I want to get it done over the next 2 years I have the interior and paint covered so I dont ned any help with that and this is not included in the $15k if need be could probley sneak another 5k over the next 2 years without wife knowing .

    So guys please help me build my dream car not a show car but a fun car (not interested in keeping it stock). Also want around 500hp on pump gas.
    Please help.
    Tim
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Going to be toug to get 500 hp on pump gas without buying the new aluminum heads so there goes 2K off the top. With pics it is hard to say what rust issues are there. Typically the radator core support, bottom of fenders , quarters and rockers. Sometimes the trunk is hurt.


    Be careful about trying to start the engine. I would be careful to soak the rings a little with marvel mystery oil without the plugs. Then after changing the oil I would prime the pump through the distributor hole first and turn over the engine after a couple of days of soaking first without the plugs.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 20, 2004
  3. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    My 2 cents worth
    Engine and tranny last. Get the brakes, suspension, cooling and steering in top condition. These are the things that have worked for me so far.

    5 core brass radiator and electric fan set from salvage yard. Controlled with a Painless Wiring harness.

    Fast ratio steering box from 96 Jeep Grand Cherekee (better turning circle with this box)

    Front end: Global West upper control arms (if you have the money go for the lowers also for reliabilty ) with spindles off of mid 80's police car (check GW's site for donor list.) I went with GW springs but it is a little lower than I like. Would suggest going with springs for a BB Chevy. Got a deal on a Helwig 1 3/16 bar and like that. Go with at least a 1 1/4 bar. Mount the bar and ends with poly but go with rubber bushings for the control arms.

    Rear end:
    Make sure you have the bar that ties the upper and lower control arms together. Edelbrock, Hotchkis and others make them. You probably do not have this.
    Put in a 12 bolt rear end from a Chevelle (lots of parts available, stonger than BOP stuff.)
    The final and most important part to a good suspension is the rear control arm setup. I will probably make a few upset but ... DO NOT USE AN ALL POLY BUSHING SET!!!! The best setup is control arms with spherical joints at the frame.. then you can use poly at the axle. There are only two companies that make a good spherical end control arm for the street and they are Edelbrock and Currie Enterprises (I think Currie make Edelbrocks) They both use a spherical end set in poly. This makes for a no bind mounting point with enough cushion to make for a smooth ride.

    Add a good set of shocks and tires. Drive it for a while and get the setup tuned in. Then when you go to the engine and tranny you will have a good solid foundation that you know works.
     

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