Hello all. I'm going to begin engine work on my '70 Skylark this summer. Was going to go with a 455, but this will be a daily driver and a 350 will get better mpg. Anyways, I'm looking to turn this into a 13 second car, possibly 12 second although I know 12 second is a little more pricey. First, What modifications are recommended for getting into the low-mid 13's? Engine was originally a 2bbl, now has a stock 4bbl intake, k&N Air Filter, edelbrock 750cfm performer carb, 1/2" spacer, Derale Fan, MSD 6A ignition, Blaster 2 Coil, Recently rebuilt transmission, and other misc. stock replacement parts. Second, What is recommended to get the best numbers out of a set of heads? Having them ported and polished or purchasing new or aluminum ones? Aluminum is a little pricey but I'll get them if I have to. Third, It would be nice to hit 12's when i take it to the track using spray. Has anyone run a set up like this, maybe 100-150hp shot? Will the block take it and still run strong? Any help here would be great and is greatly appreciated. Thanks Dylan Edit- A little more info on engine. 91000 miles, exhaust is single 2.5" with a vortex muffler.
350 aluminum heads would have to be custom built and I suspect would cost more than the rest of the car. Low Ets like those and good mpg for a daily driver are somewhat mutually exclusive. You could go faster for less money with the 455. There are just more speed parts like aluminum heads available relative to a 350.
There are a few people here that have run those numbers, but without a lot of headwork, it took quite a bit of cam and some compression to make it work. The most important thing with the Buicks is headwork, send those heads out to be ported by someone who knows what they are doing with Buick heads. They are not the same as Chevy, Pontiac, or any other 350 heads. Get them milled while you're at it, to raise compression, since you have a 9:1 2bbl engine. The last step is not needed if you plan on rebuilding the bottom end since you can get the higher CR pistons. Cast, as forged are cost prohibitive since there are no production units. As for a cam, you're probably going to get a lot of suggestions for Postons GS114 or TA212, but I think for your goals something like a TA310 would be more along the lines of what would work. See http://www.taperformance.com for the specs on that cam. Have your stock 4bbl intake ported and dont worry about the aluminum intakes. One of the fastest NA 350's on the board runs a ported iron intake. Spend the money you'd spend on an aluminum one on the porting on the iron one. I'd at the very least check your bearings. IF you plan on rebuilding the shortblock, make sure you put grooved cam bearings in, and install them properly. I'll leave the details on the spray to someone with some experience with it, but no matter what, make sure you've got pleanty of fuel. Don't go with what works on an SBC, go what would work on a BBC. 750cfm - 800cfm for your goals. If you want gas mileage, get a Q-jet built by one of the pro's on this board. John Osbourne is a name that sticks in my head, and the person who will be building my qjet (if I can ever get rid of the gas smell enough to ship them). As Jim said, mid to low 13's and a gas mileage are some what mutually exclusive barring very advanced head technology and EFI. Even my crappy 4cyl that runs low 13's only get 17mpg in the city... Hope this helps. The block isn't really the part you need to worry about with the Buick 350's, unless you lose a bearing and the rod exits it.
i disagree. get an aluminum afermarket intake, i jist added one on my stock 71 skylark and i could really feel a difference. And add a 1inch carb spacer. The lighter you get your car the faster it will go with less HP. My stock intake weighed in at 68lbs while my aluminum intake was 35lbs. It all adds up at the end of the road.
build a mild big block, you would have to put alot of money into the small block to run those numbers. The gas mileage won't be that different between a mild big block and a seriously built 350. You might actually be able to get better gas mileage from the big block. A mild big block would be alot more friendly on the street also. Easy to hit those numbers on a daily driver with the big block.
13 seconds... Hey There... The above post is true ...A big block might be more over all power but ...I run a small block and have put alot of money into it. Also as above ..the trick to the small block is in the heads....they do make a difference ...but you also need alot of cylinder pressure... we run the ta310 and are at 10.8-1 the heads are ported and gasket matched to the stock intake....headers are a must with the porting and at minimum a 750 carb as ours is that and much jetting. The reason we stay with the small block is for the wieght...we have our car so that it road handles too and it does make a difference. hope you find your combo that works... Mark
What octane gas do you run with that type of compression? im from colorado and 91 octane is the highest they sell. Would it run on 91?
gas Hey Jon... We used to have a real bad problem with detonation. i have since taken out all vacuum advance and use only the initial 18-24 and mechanical. i end up with between 34-40 total advance....if you stay a bit on the rich side you can get away with a little more advacne as the mixture tends to be a bit cooler and slower burning. But to answer your question i run straight 91 and it doesn't ping at all. Mark
I concour with what what mark said. The verdict will be out on my motor within a few weeks. I have a ton of work done on my heads (Flow 280 intake 201Exh) bottom end is nothing fancy I probably could use a little more compression (10 to 1) but we will see again in a few weeks. the 350 are pricey to build to get good power. If you want fuel economy and a 13 second ride there is only one way that I know how to get it on a budget and that is add a 100hp shot of spray and it will get you close. Just use it sparingly the 30 year old pistons may not like the added cylinder pressure. Just my thoughts.
