Considering looking at a 71 Skylark. Factory 2 barrel 350 car. Im curious to what it may take to get this car into the 12s? Or around 400 hp? Would a combo like a TA aluminum manifold and good carb, headers and good exhaust, something like 290-94H cam, and around a 3.55 rear gear and a sticky street tire be even close? Im never driven one so I dont know what they feel like.
Had a combo just as you described with 10.3:1 compression and got mid 13's. It was very well running and happy motor, but as mentioned above you will need more.
balanced bottom end with 73 caps crew rods, 10.3 comp, oil mods, forged pistons, TA dp intake, Holley 750 dp, ported heads that flow at 235-176, and about a 500 lift cam with a 230 duration @50 run 373 gear with 28"tires and you will get low 13's that's all piece of cake. 75 shot of nitrous will put it in the low 12's, 125 shot high 11's
4.11 rear gears and an overdrive trans will help get things down the track quicker and still keep it driveable on the street. And keeping the car's weight down as much as possible will help too. So fiberglass front fenders and bumpers, ditch the front inner fenders, aluminum bumper brackets all help the cause.
ask this question...if people running buicks in nhra stock go 11's and 12's with NOTHING but a properly built engine, why can't anybody else do it with all that is available???? warning, rocket scientist background is not required...............
Around here 350s are relatively cheap, probably because there's not much of a market for them. So start stocking up and go turbocharger or Procharger. Boost it until it blows up then swap in another one. You'll have some fun and get an education in the process. What could be better?
The car those NHRA engines are hooked to are very well setup track cars, tiny 200metric trans , deep gears, 8in converters etc, put them engines in a street bound chassis and they would get alot slower. They are very well built engines no doubt, and certainly make substantial hp with the parts used, but it's more so the chassis doing that work. As far as I know Hodges and Zane are Buick 350 Powered I don't follow drag racing very much if at all
Head porting! That and a good set of rods, need to sh!7 can the factory glass rods and either get a set of the Molnar 4340 forged aftermarket rods or better yet build a sbb 350/370 stroker with a set of nascar take out forged billet rods. Also a good set of forged pistons for the rods and a good balance job on the rotating assembly. Even with all that done and someone throws a TA 212 flat tappet cam in there and waa waa waaaa! A roller cam matched to the new flow characteristics of the ported heads would go a long way to getting the most out of the ported heads. A solid roller cam will let the engine rev higher than hydraulic lifters. The smaller the engine is the more RPM it takes to make power so if you stick with only 355 cubes you will definitely want the extra RPM to be able to keep the power rising. Get the heads to flow around 260 CFM from the intake and the ability to rev to 7,000 with the above mentioned parts and you should be pushing over 450 pump gas streetable HP. Adding cubes would make it easier because the RPM range can be pulled down where the power is made. Also will pull the max torque down in the RPM range as well while making around 30 to 50 ft lbs more torque for an even more streetable driver. Not really that hard to do if you can find the right person to do the port work on the heads to get some good flow out of them.
nhra stock; short block work is no difference than what we would to our blocks. .030 max nhra stock; no valve enlargement or head/intake porting nhra stock; limited to oem cam dimensions. stock carb, lockup converters??, electronic ign allowed, electric w/p allowed nhra stock; some chassis/suspensions allowed, 9" slicks, any gear nhra stock; perfection in all above categories. these guys are that good. rest of us are not limited to any of the above. so what could the reason why nobody goes as fast as nhra stock....$$$$$$$$$$ and lots of it. lol
qubic dollars all spare money you can come up with. plus credit cards must be maxed out! Dan PS selling sisters optional if married may want to let wife drive best to be single
Dont need a Holley, porting or nitrous. Just good solid planning and machine work. http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-low-e-t-from-the-350-boat-anchor.320773/
they have to run nhra supplied gas the nationals events. all other brands are illegal. F1 engines run 18k rpm, hi-comp, but run on, forgot the correct number, under 100 octane gas. go figure.
Limited to OEM "lift" not duration, there is no limit to the duration in those rules, that's how they get the power up there. To make up for the lack of compression for the amount of duration those top secret cams have, very high stall speed converters and very numerically high rear gears are used to get the car off the line and to the finish line. Everything is mismatched just right in unison for the single purpose of driving the car a quarter mile at a time and that's it! Those cars would be horrible to drive on the street so I'm really not sure why people bring those up when someone asks how to increase the power on their sbb 350?
Yeah, I seen that. Tom Miller said the engine has 11.66:1 static compression ratio with a "mild" cam! So I'm thinking that "mild" cam probably has around 250* of intake duration @.050" and probably around 267* of exhaust duration@ .050" and with probably 4.88 to 5.13 rear gears and a 4,500 stall speed converter! The only thing ''mild'' about the cam is more than likely the lift was only as high as the highest lift factory cam that was made had. I would say, not very street friendly if you'd ask me. Makes it down the QM pretty good though for what its built for. I don't know about anyone else but I like to drive my cars to the drag strip, not trailer it. That's why I like O/D transmissions with lockup converters, so I can have a 3,000 stall converter and still drive it on the street and get decent mileage to boot! With the 1st gear ratio in an O/D trans with a decent rear gear ratio with a 3,000 stall I can get my 60ft times down pretty good, have my cake and eat it too! If one were to build one of those "stock" class race cars and still wanted to drive it on the street, it wouldn't be very competitive to race it! Or it would suck arse to drive the thing on the street if it was competitive! Wouldn't be able to have it both ways with the way that engine and drive train is setup. If the engine in the link actually has a "mild'' cam, with 11.66:1 static compression would make it a nice street driver but fuel would be VERY expensive because the dynamic compression would be WAY out of the range for even the highest grade pump gas. There are no short cuts or secret building techniques to build a cheap 400 HP sbb 350 that will have good street matters that runs on pump gas that is not race or aviation fuel.
