12 bolt swap

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by stged455, Jun 4, 2011.

  1. stged455

    stged455 BARRY CLARIDGE

    got 10 bolt swapped for 12 bolt but my sway bar wont bolt up hits bottom of hog head. is there a difference here? it is a year one sway bar i got about 10 yrs ago.
     
  2. D STAGE 2 455

    D STAGE 2 455 Well-Known Member

    I have a '72 8.5 in my '65 special wagon, and the sway bar touches the center section also. I also have south side lower control arms on my car, that may be the culprit.:Do No:
     
  3. stged455

    stged455 BARRY CLARIDGE

    it fit fine on the 10 bolt. but now that have removed relocating bracketts and just using bars as tube lower control arms now wont fit. gonna measure hole to hole on mtng hole in morn and c if there is a difference.
     
  4. stged455

    stged455 BARRY CLARIDGE

    same distance between holes as stock arms so i dont understand why this sway bar will not bolt up without hitting diff case. wtf!! and on top of this crap the disc brake set up i put on which the maker of the weld on brackets said most 15 inch wheels would clear.... well guess what they DONT!! so new wheels now.:af:
     
  5. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Dude, I feel for ya. Been there, done that on the brakes.

    First, did you loosen the rear bar and see if it will move around? I just pulled a 12 bolt with a factory rear bar and swapped in a 10 bolt. I know that bar will move around a little bit so you can get some extra clearance. I can't tell any difference in the fit of the bar between the 10 and 12. The after market bar may be different but I can't imagine they make a different bar for 10 and 12 bolt rears. Maybe a picture would help get an idea what the problem is.

    On the rear discs, does the caliper hit the inside lip of a Buick wheel? You might check out my thread for pictures to see if you have a similar situation. I used a bolt-on RightStuff kit. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=219455
     
  6. stged455

    stged455 BARRY CLARIDGE

    the bar has slotted mounting holes for front to rear adjustment. but when you put rear bolts thru lower arms the front bolts are about a half a hole or better off as it hits housing. just about ready to drill new holes for custom fit.:Brow: on the brakes they hit the inside of my american racing gambler wheels15x8. the ones in my avatar pic. they just barely hit but too much for grinding of calipers or anything like that. my wheels have too much of a taper on back side.i went cheap way with weld on caliper mounts using 3/4 ton 85 chevy calipers with 95 firebird 11 1/2 x 1inch roters. i was going to go with wider wheels anyway but not right now. that is the way its been with everything lately lol.
     
  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, just went and looked at my two rear ends that are not under the car. A 10 bolt and a 12 bolt. Besides the two bolts, the 10 bolt looks smaller because the cover does not completely cover the cast iron housing while the 12 bolt hangs over the housing. Optical illusion.

    Now, I crawled under the car and tested a few clearances. Unscientifically, the factory rear bar is less than 1/2" from the 10 bolt housing that is in my car.

    A picture would go a long way to figuring out what kind of problem you are having. I can't visualize how just changing rears, which is what I did but opposite of what you did, would possibly affect the sway bar configuration. It bolts to the control arms, not the housing.
     

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