Lest you get too excited, a teaser/placeholder thread. (For my own motivation…???) A bit ago I floated my fantasy that a vacuformed car model could, quite satisfyingly, approximate “building a model car the way real cars are built.” There were some enthusiastic responses… (FWIW, while the “building” is more “advanced,” I’m surprised that the “cottage industries” haven’t embraced this… As a lifetime plane/ship/train model builder, I have seen fifty years of what seems to me to have been willful ignoring among purveyors of car models of “That’s what the (insert “plane,” “ship,” “train”) folks are doing,” We get resin reproductions of old kits, but I propose that the “skilled modeler” might embrace vacuform over resin reproduction… And probably cheaper to reproduce; I’d like to think that “the interested builders” in the hobby are “up to it.” After building my ’68 GS hardtop model for my friend Patrick’s birthday, (the build to be found elsewhere on V8Buick) I bought a second kit for “personal use.” As a “hoarder,” I recently found and contacted the source “Perry’s Resins,” in hopes of acquiring a third and fourth, but “no further production was expected in the foreseeable future.” By way of heading off “legal issues…” (It’s not like I’m making “Mustang” ™ emblems, or a model of “Eleanor” ™ .) Should Buick, AMT, or Perry’s Resins, hold copyright or trademark to the shape and form of the 1968 Buick A-body, reproduced in 1/25th scale, I attest that my reproductions are only for the furtherance of historical research and appreciation, and in no way for profit…
I believe if they do not call it a Buick they can legally build it. By the way, I have a vacuum forming machine but no molds.
As far as the licensing thing, while I was being somewhat "tongue in cheek" (as far as my own potential liability), I'm pretty sure there IS probably $ changing hands... Or, maybe at least, a requirement of "acknowledgement." Re: previous post--the Hasegawa 66 Wildcat nowhere mentions "Buick" or "Wildcat." Labeled as something like "American Sport Sedan..." Revell/Monogram didn't add "TM GM" into the frame of the '71 4-4-2 kit "just to be nice..."
Construction wise: Still need to create molds, and build a vacuum machine. (I've got a plan. Just to need to buy stuff and build. Big order to Micro Mark, and a trip or two to the orange and/or blue box stores... Out of curiosity: home-made vacuum machine, or vintage-60's Mattel...?)
Home made is much better. The vacuum machine I have is the equivalent of a home made machine but was made by someone selling part commercially and is a bit larger than most would make.
Really just a glorified “ttt,” but with an update! LOL! (As a recently retired “couch potato,” keeping this thread alive is valuable motivation…) Made the big Micro Mark order for resin casting supplies. Further editorializing—cynical as I am, I suspect that much of what Micro Mark sells may be re-labelled, overpriced, stuff we could get at Home Depot/Lowes…??? (30 years ago I made a great mold from hardware store clear RTV, but I assume the casting resins we have today didn’t exist then…) I’m starting with the “possibly overpriced” stuff from Micro Mark; I propose to make a few castings with their stuff, then try “cheaper comparables,” from Home Depot, or our supermarket-sized “Texas Art Supply…” Needless to say, should anyone have/wish to share any “been there done that” advice, much appreciated
Hey guys, I just ran across a place doing 69's, they do a couple different versions, no convertibles thou, but thats probably easy to convert from a hard top. I purchased a couple in 1/32 scale to do slot cars. He mostly does 1/25 thou. These are 3D resin printed. the detail is pretty dang nice, but with all printed stuff. they will need to be sanded and primed to get the print layer marks off. Star Models...Steve Kohler. stevekohler@cox.net. He is a super nice guy. He is some pics of the 1/32 I got. Nicholas Sloop. I have a Perry's replica car too. bet I bought it 30 yrs ago. I did some customizations to it to match the 1:1 I had at the time and actually never have finished it.
Wow!!! Thanks! Will investigate. I'm still a few items short of pursuing my vacuform plan; now that may or may not be "obsolete...???
Nicholas, just thought I would share. after some sanding and primer. Laid a little paint. This body is quite nice. I obviously have more to do, but this is what it will look like in 1/32 slot car form.
There are various sites that sell 3D files for printing. 319 search results for 3D models to 3D print with the keyword(s) “buick”・Cults (cults3d.com) "buick gs" 3D Models to Print - yeggi I have not purchased or tried any of the files.
Oh my... Wow!!! So torn... I haven't looked into this because I kinda don't want to be thwarted from my fantasy of building a model car from vacuformed "sheet metal." Back when I contacted Perry's Resins and received a "no dice," it was "full steam ahead" to do it the "hard," but only, way... Now, there are tempting "easier ways out..." hhmmmmmm.....?????
Look up 1969 Buick Skylark kit on Etsy or eBay. Micron modeling will make most any scale you need. Make sure you request the latest version with the correct hood. Tell George that Jake sent you.
Thanks Jake. Just makes me "more determined than ever" to do it the "hard way..." LOL! (Still accumulating materials and testing. Nothing worth taking a pic and posting... yet... )
Advice/suggestions hoped for, but probably just a further "no progress yet" report... (Maybe at least "of humor...") My "Plan," as suggested by a product caption in the Micro Mark catalog, was to press the Perry's Resin body into modelling clay, making a "single-use" female mold. Which would be filled with plaster, to make the male mold to go on the vacuform machine. And then, the clay balled up, and kneaded/rolled into a sheet again for the other side, hood, trunk... I bought an appropriate amount of Micro Mark's modelling clay, which turned out to have the consistency of almost-cured cement. On initial testing, pressing further would have broken the A-pillars before I got the whole side in, and it was too stiff to have reproduced even what I did press in... (I guess Micro Mark's idea might work if pressing in something metal...???) I did online research and went to the art supply store, "armed" with product information for a "soft" modelling clay. Sold in plastic wrap, I picked one up, and it was just as firm as what I already had. There was a half an aisle of "modelling clay," and "groping every product," I found the desired consistency in an assortment of "hardening clays." Gratefully, cashiers at art supply stores are more helpful than those at any other remaining brick and mortar establishment, and, while "working in clay" was not "her medium," she attacked her smart phone on my behalf. My $11 package of pliable clay would surely be "single use only," hardening in 24 hours... (While I have a bit of a "money is no object" in my silly hobbies, my frugal mom "brought me up right..." I passed...) She also found suggestions of "warming" it (sun, not oven...) or "thinning with oil..." I have soaked Micro Mark's modelling clay in vegetable oil for several days, "cutting" it with my pastry cutter. It does appear to have absorbed some... Hoping that the above was of humor, (even "at my own expense...") should anyone have experience with "soft modelling clay...???" Otherwise, I will proceed, destroying obstacles as they appear!!! Despite growing 3-D printed alternatives, I WILL create 1/25th '68 GS sheetmetal!
Hello Nicholas, I’m sorry, but I guess I must have overlooked your real intention here. If you want to create a 1/25 scale metal replica, then I offer the following (lengthy) suggestion based on my 40 years of modeling and scratch building. First, if you mean to build a model true to the real car (down to the frame), then you will need a supply of K&S brass assorted tubing and sheet. The brass will be more forgiving and stand up a little better to the handling than aluminum and the added weight will help. If you’ve never soldered brass, then you’ll want to watch some tutorials. Anyway…using whatever reference material you have, you can start cutting and bending small pieces of brass tubing and sheet to size and slowly but surely solder together all the pieces until you’ve built the frame. Then just start building up from there. When you get to the parts such as floor pans, fire walls, wheel wells, quarter panels, fenders, hoods (parts normally created from sheet metal), you’ll want to carve HARDWOOD blanks of those parts. Then you can lay your softened (annealed) brass sheet over these “molds” and slowly hammer and press down until you have your part. The pillars would be created as separate pieces and attached separately. You would basically be building the model just like the actual car was built. Many parts, like dashboards, seats and actually any small parts can be made from Evergreen plastic. It may sound like a lot of work but once you start soldering those first pieces together, and get the hang of it, it’s a blast watching it come together. The only problem I have is knowing when the details are too much. If you can’t see it on the finished model, why make it right? Bottom line is, you won’t be able to create a total body mold to make a FULL car body out of metal, unless you plan to pour die cast metal of course. Hope I didn’t get your intentions wrong and I wish you happy modeling.
Thanks, Jake. My plan is hardly that audacious… I am beyond tickled that folks are following this, so I will elaborate… There are (were…) two ideas behind my “plan:” The first being a model building fantasy of thirty years, the “cross-pollination” of model building techniques. And second, the perceived “necessity,” when Perry’s Resins said no more ’68 kits. With the info on the 3-D printed options, this has now become more of a “I just always wanted to try,” and that horse is now out of the barn. Long backstory: When I began building models as a “yout” in the ‘70s I played in several modelling “camps,” and was surprised that techniques and technologies that were “everyday” in one camp weren’t used in another. For example, lost wax cast brass detail parts were readily available in the model railroading world, and one could easily make an HO steam locomotive that was a “better model” than anything that could be done in plastic airplane or ship world. (Not to mention, the locomotive RAN, and was subject to derailment/damage… LOL!) When I added model cars to the mix in the early 80’s “pickin’s were slim.” We had a few GTOs, a couple of Chevelle’s, one 442, and no Buicks. (The Monogram GSX was still a few years off…) I remembered that in model airplane world there were vacuform kits for obscure aircraft. Subjects too “niche” to justify the cost-investment of injection molding, but a welcome option for the more experienced builder, willing to “sacrifice” one or more other kits for the additional needed parts. I recognized that inexpensive-to-manufacture vacuformed body parts for any or all 68-72 A-bodies, dropped on the Monogram ’69 GTO chassis, would be a great start to build something otherwise not available. Also, the idea of “assembling body parts” felt more like “building a car” than dropping a one-piece body onto the chassis… Granted, 0.010” or 0.020” thick vacuformed plastic “sheet metal” (need to experiment…) is hardly “scale…” And, for reasons of practicality, it will be “sides” and “top.” (i.e. the tops of the fenders and hood will start out as one piece, cut apart only after much test fitting, creating the radiator support and firewall from sturdier sheet plastic, and with the eventual seam being where the top of the fender meets the side of the fender.) Thus, I’m going to enjoy “doing it the hard way,” and “that horse is already out of the barn!” Building what I wished someone would have made available in 1983, merged/made better with my “more mature” skills/finances/time, and some new technology… (I plan to use the chassis from the Monogram/Revell ’71 442, even nicer than the old Monogram GTO, not to mention the right scale… And, I can’t wait to put one of Fireball’s incredible resin Q-jets on a big block Buick…!!!)
Update… I must really wanna do this, bad… (If you are following, I welcome all amusement at my expense, LOL!) My bottle of Code D Blue Mist from Model Car World Finishes is gonna go on SOMETHING!!!! As a “back-up plan” I have just spent $200+ on the ’69 options mentioned above. (Most of the Star Models kit will go in the bin, first of all, the Mopar steering wheel…!!!) I have not totally given up on my vacuform fantasy, but… My second attempt at a “reusable medium” for the single-use first step of my multi-step casting-molding process failed. (Inspired by the recollection that our iron engine parts are “sand cast,” and sand castles…) Granted, my wish for a “reusable medium” was “frugality for frugality’s sake.” (That’s how I was raised…) I still may make “permanent” silicone molds for my first step, and proceed with the vacuform plan… (Frugality is long out of the window… If $50-60 of “non-reusable” silicone molding gets me “back on track…???” Those ’69 bodies may yet live on the top shelf of the closet…)
Update: Maybe a “good thing” that my efforts to reproduce the (no longer available) Perry’s Resin’s (AMT-repro???) ’68 GS kit have borne no fruit… As noted, I pursued the 3-D printed options offered. The e-Bay offering is from Bulgaria, and is expected to arrive in Texas, USA, in late April/early May… (I best wait before making any further “rash decisions…” LOL!) The domestic version from Steve Kohler/Star Models arrived yesterday. It may never before have been so true that “once seen, it can never be ‘un-seen…’” Indeed, much of the Perry’s Resin’s (AMT-repro?) kit has “finer details.” The Steve Kohler kit does display some “programming a 3-D printer” shortcuts… But, the body shape is very much a case of “once seen, it can never be ‘un-seen…’” Building the Perry’s Resin kit in 2008 I may have been “blinded” by “Woo hoo! I found a ’68 kit!!!” Unboxing the kit from Steve Kohler, “Oh my god,” the body becomes (correctly) concave below the body line as it approaches the rear wheel well!!!! (Not the case on the vintage work… I now look at my Perry’s Resin kit with a “jaundiced eye…”) Half in jest, I should offer Patrick a “warranty-replacement body…” for the model I made for him in 2008, LOL! Knowing him well, either A) He noticed that discrepancy long ago, and doesn’t care, or B) Should I point out my embarrassment at a “less than correct model,” he would (deservedly) laugh in my face. I know that I take this stuff way too seriously, but that ain’t entirely a bad thing…
