I installed new ta-timingcover with neoprene seal in the end of summer 2016. I never drove the car after that, for a year. No leaks while standing or shorter idle. Until now when I started her up and been working on setting the timing, noticed oil leak between block and transmission (old sealing’s), AND some small amount drops from damper which I guess is from the new neoprene seal. Is it normal that they can leak in the beginning and stop leaking after a while, or have something gone wrong?
Your leak unfortunately will not stop and your going to be forced to in the least pull the pan to make it right!
Leaks around front can come from a few things, check for bolt seepage clean the lip off real good and smear a nice tight bead of sealer over the joint. I do this after I bolt the pan down all the way around the perimeter, one it keeps the pan from loosening up and two it eliminates any seepage. Pull the balancer and check the snout it may be two wore to seal Where the dowel pins still in the block? Without them the cover won't center and it can leak. On the rear there again put some sealer on the last two bolt threads they go into the open area at the back of the block, oil will work up the threads and then down the pan, the seal on the pan to cap will piss if not done correctly also. Do some in-depth analysis first
The new TA cover has a seal that installs from the front, no need to pull the cover, just the balancer. The front of the oil pan to block is another story.
If you've got oil dampness on the front edge of the pan below the balancer, check your fuel pump gasket as well. It'll travel down the side of the cover and collect there while the car is parked.
While searching for vacuum leaks, I plugged the PCV on carburetor and lot more smoke came up thru the open valve cover hole. I hope these minutes could be the reason. I will check fuelpump. Thanks
More smoke? If there was ANY smoke coming out the breather with the PCV connected at idle, that engine has excess blow-by. At idle, with a functioning PCV, the crankcase should be vacuum-cleaned. Air flow should be INTO the crankcase, there will be no fumes coming out the vent.
I ordered a new PCV valve just to be sure after some backfiring. Received it today; Standard Motor V112, and when I tested it with my mouth I was surprised that it needed much suction to fully open when I hold it vertical like on the intake manifold, but it was easy when I hold it horizontal to make it open. Didn't feel right. Returned it. Could this be the reason why I have small small amount of smoke from the valve cover, bad PCV valve? My old one works when i suck on the hose. I will order an ACDelco 19310783 instead. I also have ruff idle, could be replaced cam by previous owner. How do I analyze and find the excess blow-by-problem? Make a leakdown test?
The PCV needs to be calibrated to match the engine displacement and camshaft. Problem is, there's no calibration information listed anywhere. Best you can do is to find a PCV from a similar OEM engine, or buy the WILDLY expensive adjustable one. Finding the excess blow-by will likely involve a cylinder leakdown test. Unlike what you read in the magazines, a person needs to be experienced with the particular leakdown equipment being used. There's no "industry standard" for calibrating the indicated leakage, although the Federal Aviation Administration has a standard for aircraft use that I've adopted. I bought an FAA-compliant leakdown tester that also has a "master orifice" that can be used to "test the tester". Anyway, unless you're familiar with what "good" engines indicate with that piece of equipment, you won't know if your engine is reading good or bad. I've seen extremely-worn valve guides contribute to crankcase pressure--the exhaust gas blows through the valve-to-guide clearance and pressurizes the engine from the cylinder head. A restricted exhaust system makes this worse.
Interesting. I'm qurious about the adjustable one, any recommended? Looking at http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/an-adjustable-pcv-valve-for-the-street/ not sure if the hose adapter will match the intake manifold grommet .
I would make sure you 'have an engine' before you go too far with the adjustable PVC. I haven't read much of the post, but the last few comments from Schurkey are incredibly insightful.
As for the front seal, take the dowels OUT put cover on with bolts loose, put balancer on and that will center the seal, tighten bolts and go. Fwiw
Your opening up a timebomb, I would throw a pan under it , and cary a can of Oil i the trunk. Youl need a can opener too. Your can O oil will say brand X or maybe Acme oil. I hope you found this info insightful and very helpful.
