I wish lol, I don’t have 15k to drop on an engine. I’m a single dad with both my kids full time. If I don’t do it myself or with the help of a buddy I’m pretty much out of luck.
It’s either that or I’ll create a boat anchor trying lol. I do appreciate the words of encouragement!
I would disassemble everything, and have the crank checked at the least for straightness and cracks. Im just thinking here, If that LeSabre was rear ended hard enough to total it, was the rear axle shoved forward along with the driveshaft, into the transmission, then into the crank? Probably a long shot but yah never know.
Just an update, After a lot of thought I decided to wait and save up money to send the motor to a machine shop. I found one where they said they have experience with Buick engines. I pulled the heads and cam in preparation to send it over hopefully sometime this week. Here’s what it looked like inside.
Looks like some water got in there, hopefully not too pitted, a set of .038 pistons, some basic oil mods, and some resizing of the critical holes sizes, balance and some main studs and rods bolts timing cover and enjoy
Hopefully, the new pistons are taller (and lighter!) so you don't need to take so much off the decks to get the pistons level (zero deck). Ideally, the decks wouldn't be cut more than it takes to get them square to the crank saddles. Too bad there's rust in the cylinders. Any chance it's so light that a dingleberry brush will take care of it? (Probably not...)
I was a bit bummed about the rust as well. The rust isn’t too bad but I’m certainly not qualified to make that call as far as boring or honing goes haha.
Why .038 over instead of .030? I actually have a blue block I picked up a while back sitting in my garage and I’m wondering if I should just use that with everything else from this motor. The blue block will need to be bored but it’s never been checked out. Any recommendations on a cam that will work well with these small valve heads? I know doing the stage 1 valves will be pricey. I’ll probably at least ask about the price of going to the stage 1 valves. I’ve thought about a ta 212 or a ta 284-88h. I’m looking for something mild and easy to tune and more focused on torque. The car has an M21 for now so that 2.20 first gear will need it. Original posi rear with 3.42s in the back.
.038 over gets you to 4.350 which I believe is a Mopar 440 .030 over, so the rings are cheaper. I would look into the Autotec or Diamond Pistons that JW sells. They will have the better compression distance to get you to 0 deck without a lot of milling. You will need to know what your static compression ratio is before picking a cam. If you use a cam like the TA212 with 10:1 or higher, your Dynamic compression will be too high. Best to stick with 9.5:1 for the TA212. For the TA284-88H, you'll want 10:1.
I appreciate you explaining the over bore. I’m more leaning toward the 88h but I may be pushing it running iron heads with 10:1. I was looking at the forged pistons sold by ta but I’ll check those others out to.
I think most the TA stuff ends up way down the hole due to 1.980 compression height, I would get you block going first then get 2.000 or 2.020 to fit your block to 0 deck or. 010 down and get .040 gaskets, for the street you will want the dished pistons.
http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-470-482-piston-options.324745/ Pay no attention to the 470 and 482. You can still use these pistons without offset grinding/stroking.