Ill need lots of help on this.... What I have so far. 72 and 73 blocks the 72 block is cleaner and was running, has not yet been sonic checked. The 73 has been sonic checked, One cylinder is a little thin. but this block is a little rough rust wise. Im working on getting the other block checked. Unported TA stage 2 SE heads. (trying to save up money to get them ported as that was not in the budget at time of purchase) I just ordered the diamond/molnar 482 setup via Jim W. Comp. ratio around 10 to 10.5 felpro head gaskets TA front timming cover setup with oil pump already TA stage 2 headers for this setup and my car. Romac SFI damper JW flex plate oil pan 1511C/D raw. cam bearings teflon 1559 not oversize 5/8 oil pickup tube Im now looking at the TA 1.65 roller rockers, also a girdle for my own piece of mind. Cam I have not chosen yet. I understand I want to shoot for around 230 deg of duration, but after that Im not sure yet. Hydraulic? solid? roller? all have there benefits, Im pretty open minded to any. and im not against needing to save up some money for a roller if its really worth it and wont cause too many other issues. also leaning to fuel injected. I have a good running 800 quadrajet now, so to get the project moving I may just go with that one. (also Im limited on hood clearance because its a 65. Im not sold on any kind of hood scoop. Engine needs to run well on the street. and be absolutely bulletproof. I have not decided on bearings or rings yet, Ill probably let the machinist pick those, unless there is an overwhelming need for me to get anything specific. well lunch time is over, Ill edit and update this post later. I typed it up in a hurry but Im sure you all get my ideas
Figure out your SCR first. Get the 72 block sonic checked and see if its better. What was the numbers on the 73? How bad is the rust? Why the 1.65 rockers? Why do you want a girdle? How are you going to use this car? I am asking as there are a lot of different things you need to consider for this build. Realistically are you going to get the porting done? Or are you going to put those funds to other aspects of this build?
Sorry, you're to far away for me to drive there to help build that thing. Maybe someone closer can help you?
everything I know about heads is that’s where the power is. And that’s the place to spend the money. Well originally I was just going to replace my stock iron heads with stage 2’s. Then port them whence I decide to build the engine. Well plans changed. Now here I am.
I originally wasn't a big fan of hyd. rollers. For the street we always went with hyd. But the last 3 engines we did had hyd.rollers in them and 2 we dyno'd. They idled great and created vacuum. Made impressive hp and torque.Pump gas motors with 482 cubes. I'd save some extra $$$ and get one from Scotty Brown,he ground ours and work well. Also, install the girdle,another $900. installed, the extra stroke could increase stress,all ours had a girdle, plus who's happy with their original build and will look for a "few" more hp in the future.lol. gary
If it will help you out I have the filled / girdled block from my last build bare, machined and ready to build. Bored .038 over. Halo and lifter girdled installed. It went 10.20 its last time out.
I honestly don’t know much of the different characteristics of different cams such as hydro, solid, and just rollers open and close valves faster. But what can make the best power without adding undue stress to the build. Briz. Are you offering to sell the block or??
From the TA Catalog, And some reading on Dynamic Compression Ratio, http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html
I have an option to buy a block from a well known member here. However it’s filled up to the water pump holes with hardblock. For a mostly street motor is that too much??
Hardblock stabilizes the block, BUT, it can also mean higher oil temperatures. IMO, not good for street driven motors. Coolant in the lower block cools the oil. It can make quite a difference in oil temperatures. For a Race car, not a problem, but for a street car, no good.
Normally I would agree with the above with a different brand engine but with a sbb or a BBB the water pump holes are very low in the bores that would only allow about an inch of fill to be just enough to barely stiffen the bottom of the bores with enough of the rest of the bore to be cooled with oil. Plus the Buick engine bores extend into the crankcase about an inch and a half or maybe 2" that can't be effected with fill that can still be cooled with oil. I personally wouldn't be concerned one bit using that block on the street or long highway trips.
I'm not sure Derek, My only indirect experience with that is John Csordas Jr.' 71 Procharged BBB. Not sure how much of a fill he has, but he could not street drive that car. The oil temps would go very high. He has a Tomahawk block now so it no longer applies. I'll call him and find out how much of a fill he had. This was the only thread I could find quickly on the subject, http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/hardblock-question.276934/#post-2280032
OK, just talked to John Jr. He has run a full fill and also filled up to the BOTTOM of the water pump holes. With a full fill, no street driving without an oil cooler. With the fill to the water pump holes, the oil begins to get too hot after 1/2 hour to 45 minutes, 1 hour is pushing it. He advises using an oil cooler regardless.
My engine does not have a girdle. I have an oil pressure equalization line. I keep the RPM below 6000. It is still alive after 7 years.
I have thought about that, but your also right on the line of when to use a girdle, Personally Id like to use it and err on the side of caution, For the piece of mind that im not scared to hell and sweat is pouring down my brow as im getting ready to shift, Or hold it another few hundred RPM, Seems like cheap insurance in the big picture. If it's installed but never "used" then no sleep will ever be lost. Like Jim says, You will get a lot of varied opinions here, but here are my general guidelines, for when to fill the block with grout, and add girdles. your block MAY be a little stronger then mine, or was poured at the foundry on a good day?? Or are right on the line of breakage but nobody is to know until it happens 1-2" of fill girdle billet mains is it overkill, Maybe but it seems like in the overall build its cheap, keeping from potential loosing a block, heads, transmission, wreck, Seriously I regret taking the heads off my perfectly good old motor to put aluminum ones on. this snowballed into what im building now. Hopefully an engine that ill never have to tear into again...... maybe......
Yeah, an oil cooler would be good cheap insurance to keep the oil temps in check on any performance build. I like the dual circuit trans/engine oil coolers they make with its own fan already if you have an auto trans car. Sounds like this build is going to be close to the edge of needing a girdle? Maybe a halo girdle would be enough? From what I have read here those seem to be helpful around that level? For a lot less $$ too, probably for around $800 less it would be something to look into anyway.