Hi Jim I just read that you completed a engine build for a member, he said that you installed a torrington bearing to take care of cam walk. I have 2 questions about this. 1. What is the cause of cam walk, and are torrington bearings just a bandaid fix? 2. Were did you come up with the torington bearing? Thanks Mike Gilbert
Mike, Generally, that isn't a problem except for roller cams. In the case of roller cams, a cam bumper kit is used. Are you sure you aren't thinking of damage to the front of the block. That's the only time i remember seeing a torrington bearing used, not for cam walk, but to repair the block. Maybe this thread is relevant? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...for-scored-block&highlight=torrington+bearing
Hi Larry I got a brand new Comp Cam, a hydrolic lifter cam. After running it for maybe 100 miles I blew off the remote oil filter adapter and pulled the motor. When we got to looking at in at the machine shop we noticed the cam was walking BACK into the block and cutting into the block. I have not had the chance to check the distributor gear for ware yet. Thanks Mike
I think you just identified the root cause of the problem. Excessive cold oil pressure causes huge resistance in distributor rotation, and the force is screwing the camshaft gear rearwards forcing the cam into the front of the block. Are you running a high volume oil pump? What viscosity? Devon
The oil pump is NOT a high volume pump, but I run the metal spacer plate, and I am running straight 20 weight Brad Penn oil. Mike
Sounds fine so far. What were the pressures, cold and hot? Seems like the two symptoms you mentioned are screaming for oil pump attention for one reason or another. Devon
If you blew the oil filter or pump cover, I'd say your pressure is excessive. That can happen if the pressure relief valve gets stuck. I'd also pull the cam and look at your front cam bearing.
Hi Mike, Sorry I was not able to see this when you posted it, and it was good to talk to you on the phone last week. I hope it helps you in the correct direction. Here are some pictures that might help out.. After surfacing the damage area. And a pair of .030 torrington bearing races for spacers. JW
Hi Jim Thanks for the pictures, it was good to talk to you last week, and this makes it all clear. How did you cut the block? Did the cam bearings need to be cut? Have a great Holiday season.
Mike, cut in a Bridgeport.. hanging the block off the side was a trip, according to Ron.. No, no requirement to cut the front cam bearing, it's installed in the correct position in that picture. Jw
cam walk is consider in Ed Iskenderian and Comcams and many other cam makers is lifter bore misalignment and possible cam bore misalignment. https://www.iskycams.com/camwalk.php
Jim - the face of that block looks familiar.... Looks like the weather might break in a few more days for you. I still stand by my comments that I'm not coming back until I have to mow my yard.... My neighbor sent us pics of our yard, house and driveway - it looks just awful. I will make a road trip and bring back your fuel gauge when we get home. best regards Byron
Hey Byron-- Hope AZ is treating you well... You missed a bad on this year, and it's snowing like crazy again today.. we have 6" already and still coming down-- cities missed most of it, started about your house and north. See you when you get back. JW
That pic of your hand on the block holding the thrust washer in place reminds me of the Hayden trans manuals with all the drawn in hands pointing or holding various parts for a rebuild. I had a come back and i blamed it on the book not having pics of any hands in it. I was the only one who thought it was funny though.
Jim, in your example of using the pair of .030 Torrington races, did you use a pair because the damage was deeper than .030, and you had to go .060 or if it's less than .030, could you just go .030 and use one? I'm assuming it just floats there, and is allowed to spin, or is it secured(press fit or epoxied, etc) somehow? Also, do you have a part # of that race?
Jim, Yes, the damage was more than one .030 race would repair. That is why I did not use the bronze trust washer that TA has to repair this one. I needed more than the .040 thickness of that piece. On that repair, they just float on the cam. I am sorry I don't have the part number for the races, and that engine is still in service. If your damage is less than .040 deep, I recommend the bronze thrust washer that TA has.. actually just ordered another one here last week, to do a repair. JW