If you temporarily install a set of light springs, you can see the maximum advance at a much lower RPM and set it accordingly.
MSD make a kit for their distributors # 8464 I don't know if it's worth giving that a go or if anyone else here has tried that. Also, I'm close to getting getting the car legal for the road. But the authorities are concerned about the engine number. They can't decipher / decide if the first and second last number is a 6 Can we confirm it is fact a 6 please ?
Thanks Michael, that's weird. Why would Buick use b as a 6 ( or 9 ) surely they had a full set of number punches ?
The Buchev has 3:47 gears with a 700R4. It weighs exactly 4,300 lbs on a scale guaranteed to be within 5 lbs. (I'm proud that along with the engine swap and adding a heavy-duty trailer hitch, the truck lost 160 lbs). I really want a posi, but if I do it, I will go for 3:36 gears.
Not quite on the road yet Bill. Took it to the authorities for a final check and they pinged it for having the steering shaft too close to chassis ( minimum 3/8" they require ) So it means some serious surgery to cutting into the chassis and re-fabricating. It's getting tiresome and a real strain on the mental side of things. Trying to do it with the engine still in which is difficult, but pushing on. As for the earlier problems, the authorities accepted the engine number as a 6. Gear ratio change is the last thing on my mind right now. The problem I had with engine misfire was the leads for sure. Braking down in a second location, so bought a roll of quality wire and will re-do them all and get rid of that Chinese crap !
Finally got a chance to use the dial back timing light. I'm getting 32 degrees at 2,500 RPM. Should I be happy with that and leave alone, or hunt down a Crane adjustment kit somewhere ( extinct ) or try another set of springs which are readily available eg. MSD # 8464
you need to go to around 3500 rpms to make sure timing is not still advancing. what is your base timing at idle with no vacuum advance hooked up.
The Buchev also has the 700R4, but it also has a 3.47 gear. Even with slightly higher compression then stock, and the 091 cam, It works well. If you are looking to win drag races, I would go with a 3.73. If you want to win more drag races, I'd go with 3:90. It's going to be thirsty with the 3.90's tho. The Buchev isn't an economy queen with the 3.47's, but it's probably significantly heavier then your beautiful '34.
Actually, I have removed the covers from every Nailhead that I have owned. They just invite crossfiring. If you insist on having them, be sure that the plug wires are good - no, cross that out, perfect.
I did eventually change out the plug wires. The ones I started with were sure to have been made in China. This time I went went with locally made stuff and haven't had a problem since / yet. It's running well except that in overdrive with 3.09 the oil pressure drops with lower RPM to a level I'm not happy with. Will take off oil pan next week to inspect pump. Which after I sealed up very nicely will have to take off and do it all again.
Cold idle 38- 40 psi. Hot idle 12- 15 psi. It's the pressure at highway speed in overdrive ( no tach installed ) I'm not happy with ---- somewhere around 25-30 psi.
What weight oil? (30w is preferred) If you are around 1800-2500 RPM in overdrive you are fine with that pressure hot. If the pressure drives up to 38 PSI under loaded acceleration while hot, then it is not concerning. You can buy a low cost tach and verify your RPM and pressure over range of operation and put your mind at ease, then remove the tach. Not intending to come across rude, but without numbers, that give context, it is hard to be sure you get meaningful input from folks. But such a nice rig and all the time, effort and money you've put in it, hate your not happy and confident in it.
I rebuilt the pump with new gears and check ball. I want to double check the pump face tolerances and modify as per a discussion here some time ago to increase spring pressure.