I myself generally don't let go of really clean fenders, but $400 is fair imo, 4 a clean fender. $250+ for a straight one needing a small patch. Fiberglass is not what you want for something you going to drive, and imo I wouldn't even put them on a race car.
I've got a pair that that I would let go of, actually for about them,..on a 4door we bought a year ago. I can have my guts at school strip it and epoxy prime them for no charge $400ish for both, will need small patches, can use the patch panels you currently have for the donor sections
I will let you know, trying to decide on the direction to go on for the body work that needs done. Originally I planned for the car to be a drag car but I am still uncertain. Plus I was going to try and fix the fender I have just for experience sense I have most of the metal to do it.
I'm assuming this isn't the factory brake line routing and this was replaced in the past? Looking for confirmation
Thanks Hugger, does anyone have any motor mounts and or frame pads for a 455? If not has anyone used the after market mounts found on eBay? Quality?
It will kinda find it's way to where it should be because of its shape, but the best way is to mount it back in the car and then set the inner fender in place center up the holes start a few bolts and tack it in place then take it out and sew it up
Hugger, are you talking about the wheel house? I do have the original wheel house but it's kinda mangled. Would you suggest getting new ones to help line it up? Before cutting the new pieces I was going to overlap them with the existing metal, tac them in place, then test fit everything with the fenders.
If you have enough of the original support left you can take measurements of it, but I suspect that's not the case. But yes mock it up with the wheelhouse in place, I would repair it first then it will provide you with a much better fit In the end
Hugger, one last question, when you say mount it in the car, its hard to do so because the pieces that mount are the pieces I'm replacing which contain the core support mount bushings
Sheet metal screw it close to where you think it should be and adjust it once in there. Only reason I'm suggesting this is because with a new wheelhouse patch, fender patch and core support patch you gonna play hell getting all them wheelhouse bolts in if it isn't mocked up
So this is the point I'm at. The article can be found here. https://streettechmag.com/2015/01/15/how-to-repair-a-rusted-core-support/#prettyPhoto I'm trying to figure out how they determined the location? Right now I have it mocked up as hugger suggested with sheet metal screws.