Best antifreeze for 455 with aluminum heads and intake

Great article, who knew?
Thank you for the education about using distilled water. Vet

 

Larry, I did some research and here's another recommendation. It always amazes me how many recommendations you can find for what liquid should be used in a radiator. Will not find that at just any store. Vet

Use Deionized Water for Coolant

Once that is done, the mineral ions are also removed from the solution, leaving the water in a stable, mineral-free state. When used as a coolant, unlike distilled water it doesn't strip the metal in your radiator which can lead to corrosion.

 

I think there's too much over thinking here! For 40+ years, I've used 70% tap water to 30% coolant. I drain and fill, not flush, every two years. I used to flush, but I haven't in over 25 years because my garage drain goes into a storm sewer, not a sanitary. I have never lost a radiator, at least on cars that were either family owned or I knew the person that owned it from new due to internal corrosion. I've lost them from external corrosion from salt and I lost the one on my wagon after 25 years because I couldn't get the rusted oil cooler line out of it. I do use distilled water in my Griffin that's in my GS. If you haven't added any straight water to your radiator, the boil/freeze protection will never change from the time you first put it in. Also, make sure that all of your engine and body grounds are good and the radiator is not grounded.

 

70% water, 30% coolant

 

I just got to thinking, most of these recommendations just say radiator. They don't spell out the different between aluminum and copper brass radiators.
What I know about these two different metals, copper brass will corrode much quicker than aluminum.
I would believe aluminum radiators are a plus-up to buy and use. Much better for high temp cars. Vet

 

It is probably easy to overthink. After I read the Rislone article last year I decided to continue using tap water. Everyone seems to get by on that around where I live.

The anti freeze though? A friend of mine had extra holes drilled in his aluminium cylinder head. This on the Volvo 240 he just bought. We thought. It turned out to be severe internal local corrosion. Maybe from the orange probably modern coolant the previous owner had put into this classic car? This freaked me out anyway. When I bought anti freeze for my Buick I did it on a written recommendation from an anti freeze manufacturer. I almost rather quit this hobby than changing that dang heater core again. Be it overthinking or not

 

How are you going to NOT ground a radiator that has metal transmission cooler tubes attached?

Radiators are mounted on rubber pads for vibration resistance, not to isolate them from electrical ground.

Nope. Worn-out, depleted anti-freeze maybe. Lack of anti-freeze, maybe. Perhaps severe electrolysis due to lack of electrical grounds on the engine...maybe.

I've got some aluminum heads with some water-jacket corrosion damage. I bought them used, found out AFTER I bitched (eBay purchase) that they'd been on a circle-track car with zero anti freeze in the cooling system.

 

Use a small section of hose in the cooler lines. That's why the OE's do it on theirs, including RWD vehicles. It wasn't as much of an issue with copper/ brass radiators. At least that's what GM told me when I had a customer car with repeated heater core failures.