What is an acceptable amount of brake drag?

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by HeavensDevil, Jan 29, 2024.

  1. HeavensDevil

    HeavensDevil Well-Known Member

    My front disk's always seemed a bit tight. Here's a vid:

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    I've seen worse....if you are really concerned about it you can put springs on the caliper bolts to help them retract for basically zero drag. That's what I do on drag cars....
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    There's always some amount of drag. Just make sure your sliding surfaces are clean and lubed.
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Copy above. Make sure calipers do "float", meaning for any given caliper, no hinderance to left & right motion.

    If a pin freezes, caliper can't float, and can increase drag, and wear will quickly increase on one spot on a pad, and not on the opposite.

    From the vid, looks ok!

    1973gs likes this.
  5. HeavensDevil

    HeavensDevil Well-Known Member

    Everything is lubed and free. I even filed the rough powder coat on the sliding surfaces of the pads. At one point I thought my master pushrod was too long but even with the MC unbolted it's the same. It's just one of those things I go back to when the car is jacked up and I start second guessing myself on..
    The spring idea is interesting, I can see it being viable on a drag car. Such an unnecessary build up of heat and friction..
    When I pry it back she can spin for days
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    On my car, one is like that and one spins a little freer and I've thought about it but never done anything other than check the bearings and the caliper movement. It all checks out.

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    The springs on my calipers and removing self adjusters in rear actually made my car more consistent racing. Every time you back up and hit brakes the shoes can tighten up.
    HeavensDevil likes this.
  8. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Make sure the MC is releasing all the way....incorrect plunger depth will cause brake drag
  9. HeavensDevil

    HeavensDevil Well-Known Member

    I did verify the MC piston was returning to the snap ring when I unbolted it and pushed on it with a screwdriver. I think it's mechanical not hydraulic because nothing changes when I crack the bleeder.
    Same, my right one feels a couple bees dicks freer..
    Max Damage likes this.
  10. HeavensDevil

    HeavensDevil Well-Known Member

    Good call on the rears. Luckily I converted to disk's back there too.
  11. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    Make sure that the front wheel bearings are adjusted correctly. The nut should not even be finger tight. The play in the bearings helps push the piston back in and your bearings will last longer.
  12. 72gs4spd

    72gs4spd Well-Known Member

    I’m going with hub defenders when I replace my rotors. Once set they recommend 40 ft/lbs of torque. They have complete Bearing, spacer and low drag seal kits.
    knucklebusted likes this.
  13. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    What is that? Does it go inside the rotor, over the spindle and act similar to the rear pinon crush sleeve?
  14. 72gs4spd

    72gs4spd Well-Known Member

    knucklebusted likes this.

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