I’ve had this 72 Skylark since ‘94. Because I liked the Quadrajet I bought the Holley Sniper Quadrajet (that roar is real and I always liked it), a new Tanks Inc EFI tank with pump and sender, and a regulator on the firewall (the QJet versions of the Sniper do not have an internal regulator). In addition to reduce the pulsations in the line I put a Radium Engineering fuel pulse damper on both the feed and return lines of the throttle body. I tried one on the return first, made the feed pulse more, and vice versa with just one on the feed. Two of them cuts the pulsing by maybe 90%. I also got the full hyperspark ignition system as well, timing controlled by the ECU. I’d gotten the EFI installed, checked that it was all good, and then put the ignition in after. The lighting storm from trying to run it on spark plug wires dated 1994 was amazing. I quickly shut her down before she fried herself and made up the MSD 8.5 set I’d bought. After that, the Wizard was run, and we went off for a test drive. Nice, but meh. I read this board and put in some start, idle, cruise, and WOT timing values I found to see what’d happen. Went out for another test drive and I ended up scaring myself silly. Holy crap was she fast! Bone stock 350, TH350, a 12-bolt non-posi rear that I’m told came out of a station wagon or something. Karen never ever did burnouts before. Not even with braking and revving. Now? Put your foot to the floor from a standstill and smokey burnout ensues leaving a strip of my new tire on the pavement. I couldn’t get the IAC where everyone says it’s supposed to be, until I backed out this tiny Allen head screw that sits up against the lever of the secondaries. I guess that was keeping the secondary butterflies open just enough to raise the idle to the point where the IAC was not needed so it was always at 0. The slotted IAC on the primary butterflies was all the way out, not even touching, and it wasn’t until I turned that Allen screw that I could follow the procedure and get the IAC to 2 at idle. For some reason, the car runs worse that way, even after starting the wizard and re-learning again. All I’d done was let the secondaries close all the way. Or maybe on the Q-Jet version they’re not meant to? All 4 butterflies on the regular sniper move in unison and there are progressive linkages to tame that for drivability, but Q-Jet version comes with that setup. What’s the point of that screw anyway? So I’m getting a little frustrated because that first test drive had no bog, no flat spots, nothing but smooth power anywhere you wanted it and awesome drivability… but 0 IAC and an idle that didn’t want to go below 750 or so. then I touch that screw and screw it all up. Does anyone here have a configuration file that’s been working for their stock 350/4bbl that I can take a look at to get a sense of what kind of tuning I’m supposed to do? I used to tune my car by ear, nose, vacuum gauge and timing light. I think it’d help if I could visualize what’s known and supposed to work for this engine. Thanks for reading this novel-length post and I look forward to participating more. There was barely an internet back when I got this car. My Year One catalog was on paper! Here’s some pics. Please forgive the horrible bodywork from 1994 when a friend and I did body and paint in my home garage (because I had no money). Then there’s was a pic of where the handheld lives, and the location of the Allen screw I was talking about.