1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

72 GS Stage1 Numbers Matching Convertible Resto

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by dhenderz, Apr 5, 2024.

  1. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Ouch, $79 for tje door sticker!
     
  2. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Your in it this far, what's another $79?? Lol
     
    chiefsb30 and Smartin like this.
  3. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    Don’t worry helps coming in January! I paid $120 for the two GN door decals.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2024
    Brett Slater likes this.
  4. Stage 2 iron

    Stage 2 iron Platinum Level Contributor

    There is a board member here that can make you that decal for your door. I forget who it is. With your vin and the correct date code.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2024
    BYoung likes this.
  5. BYoung

    BYoung Stage me

    I wonder if @BUQUICK is still replicating these.
     
    Stage 2 iron likes this.
  6. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Gary Steele was doing them.

    @BUQUICK
     
    Mike Sobotka and Stage 2 iron like this.
  7. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Painting is now complete.

    upload_2024-11-27_20-17-34.jpeg

    upload_2024-11-27_20-17-57.jpeg
     
  8. donny1973

    donny1973 Well-Known Member

    Mike Sobotka and Dano like this.
  9. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    A6 disassembled, cleaned and painted. Still waiting for my o-ring lube and mineral oil to reassemble.

    upload_2024-11-29_17-35-27.jpeg
     
    BUQUICK, docgsx, BYoung and 1 other person like this.
  10. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Thanks Donny, same to you.
     
    donny1973 likes this.
  11. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I'm assuming that's the AC compressor?
     
  12. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Yes, its the a/c compressor. I put a/c new lines on order today from TPP. HVAC module reseal kit is also on the way.
     
    Brett Slater and rolliew like this.
  13. donny1973

    donny1973 Well-Known Member

    I was shocked when I switched on the ac and the compressor engaged and ran quietly. Must have still been some pressure in the system.
     
  14. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Not anymore!
     
    donny1973 and 72STAGE1 like this.
  15. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    At an odd point with the restoration. I have multiple projects disassembled, but at a stopping point waiting for parts. A/C compressor waiting on o-ring lube. Steering column waiting on upper & lower bearings. HVAC case waiting on seal kit. Cluster waiting on new lenses. Every bench in the shop is occupied with a 'project'.

    I did get new dash & firewall pads installed. That is a thankless job working upside down on your back. But they were included in the Legendary kit and the ones on the car were in pretty tough shape, especially the under dash pad.

    Also, a small victory in getting the original clock working again. First challenge was getting the metal back cover off. The studs just spun in the case when trying to remove the nuts. I had to cut access holes in the metal back cover so I could reach in with pliers to hold the studs. Once apart I found the source of the issue was twofold. One of the contact pads for the electromagnet was missing. This caused the opposite side contact pad to foul and lose electrical contact when it closed. I contemplated trying to solder in a new contact pad, but the pad is very tiny. I disassembled an old 12v relay I had laying around hoping to steal a contact pad. But it was at least twice too big in size. I cleaned up the contact pad that was still on the clock and also cleaned the surface on the arm where the other pad used to be. And what do you know, it conducts adequately to work. Not sure how long it will last.

    The other problem was just basic lubrication of the clock gear set. A few drops of strategically placed 3in1 oil and viola' the clock works again.

    What I found interesting was how the clock functions. I was expecting a DC motor driven clock mechanism. Nope, no motor. The way the clocks works is as follows. There is a main drive gear that is loaded with a spring that drives its rotation through about 90deg. Thru this spring-driven rotation the rest of the clock mechanism gets it perpetual motion. As the main drive gear reaches near the end of its 90deg spring-driven rotation, which takes about 20sec, it causes the contacts of the electromagnet to close. This energizes the magnet which in turn 'fires' the spring-driven main gear back around to its 90deg starting position. And then the process repeats - every 20sec or so.

    Pic below of the electromagnet contact, with one of the pads missing. Note the pad is on the right contact, but is missing from the left contact. I do wonder where it went. It was not in the case.

    upload_2024-12-1_19-39-18.jpeg
     
    docgsx and donny1973 like this.
  16. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Your better off just getting a quartz conversion for it. The repair won't last.

    As far as those stand offs, I use long machine bolts with plastic spacers that @black70buick made for me on his 3D printer
     
    12lives and chiefsb30 like this.
  17. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Heater and a/c boxes restored and installed. I originally debated whether to replace the heater core. Got the box apart and realized it was a very good thing I did go ahead and order the new core. Ran out of time and didn't get the new a/c lines installed. I did get the steering column rebuilt.

    As mentioned in an earlier post, I did purchase the Skylark heater box (with a/c) reseal kit from TPP. Luckily it wasn't very expensive. Not a helpful kit. The rope seal included in the kit, which frankly what you need the most of, is just a roll of foam. It is basically foam backer rod. How in the world you are supposed to use that in place of the original soft butyl sealer is a mystery to me. I ended up picking up some of my own. The only seal I ended up using in the kit was the seal for the heater core plate.

    upload_2024-12-8_19-50-29.jpeg



    upload_2024-12-8_19-51-20.jpeg
     
    FireRedGS455, BYoung, rolliew and 7 others like this.
  18. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Got the gauges, booster, master cylinder and wiper system back in the car. Before moving on to the interior decided to tackle the top. Will be a first for me. Read a lot of horror stories. What's the worst that could happen, maybe destroy the top and end of having someone else do it? Don't know for certain until you give it a go. So here we go....

    upload_2024-12-21_19-53-31.jpeg upload_2024-12-21_19-53-56.jpeg

    upload_2024-12-21_19-54-24.jpeg

    upload_2024-12-21_19-54-47.jpeg

    upload_2024-12-21_19-55-10.jpeg
     
  19. donny1973

    donny1973 Well-Known Member

    You’re a brave soul Dennis. I thought the deck glass was broken? I seem to remember vacuuming out shattered safety glass from the trunk. Could be getting my cars confused. Anyway, good luck with the top. Car looks great so far.
     
    Dano likes this.
  20. dhenderz

    dhenderz Founders Club Member

    Your memory is correct. The back window and curtain was completely missing from the car. I did have another top from a prior build that I was able to use as a template.
     
    donny1973 likes this.

Share This Page