1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

1968 SportWagon Revival

Discussion in 'Drag'n Wagons' started by 95CCRMW, Nov 30, 2014.

  1. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Hi, i noticed that the wagon section needs some love so ill post here. The SportWagon belonged to my grandpa who was the original owner. When he passed away it was given to me and my dad. The car has been apart for about 30 years and started to get resurrected over the summer. First i recruited my friend to help me with some of the heavy lifting. After that i began to work on the front suspension. It is getting converted to front discs. Sandblasted all of the pieces including the bolts, primed, and painted them. Got new ball joints and put them in. Repainted the upper and lower a-arms. Ordered new springs, got new shocks, idler arm, new inner and outer tie rods. Got alot of work done this summer and plan to do what i can indoors over the winter.
     

    Attached Files:

    1967 Big Buick likes this.
  2. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Very cool. Keep up the progress and you'll be driving it in no time
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  3. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    very cool .. the world will be a better place with another 68 Sporty on the road :TU:
     
    Waterboy likes this.
  4. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Well haven't had any progress in a long time... hope to change that soon. My dad just ordered new brake hardware, front wheel bearings and brake lines so hopefully ill have something to do soon. Hopefully start making progress in May when I'm out for the summer. I did however get myself a grand cherokee box and shaft from the yard on Friday. My puller tool was useless at the yard so i got the box home however i could this time... brought the trans home to clean up, do a shift kit, and change the solenoid. Cant wait to get going again!
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Other than heat I dont think there is an easy way to get that pitman / drag link connection apart. Usually gotta beat the crap out of it and use a pickle fork
     
  6. SteeveeDee

    SteeveeDee Orange Acres

    If you can get the nut off, you can also try striking the drag link with two hammers (two pounds each,minimum) at the same time. Not easy to synchronize, but I've done it that way as well. As Briz has said, the pickle fork works. My suggestion is for if you don't have one. If you use either method, be sure to use eye protection.
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  7. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Now it’s really been a long time... Decided a couple weeks ago I want to work on the wagon again. Got my brother to help me drag the frame to dads garage from location it’s been at for 40 years . Nothing groundbreaking done yet, just slowly working. Put some new kyb shocks upfront, put centerlink and tie rods on, put the front rotors on, threw some nice period bias ply rollers on. Original front aluminum drums to throw on the rear end. I won’t lie it’s much easier to get motivated with tools and a garage that are close to home. Just have to keep pluggin away this time.
     

    Attached Files:

    Dano likes this.
  8. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Nice! A body off on a wagon is ambitious but keep at it! I've had a couple of 68-9 SW 400's

    If you're going to sell your old front drums & have some meat left on the lining (i.e. depending on how much they've been turned), I may be interested. Shoot me a PM.
     
  9. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Sorry keeping the drums. Been working on the brakes and retrieving parts. Brought home the wheels. My grandpa had them on his 81 lesabre before they went into storage. Desert sourced, rust free core support that has been patiently waiting to become part of the wagon. Also came across the protecto plate with manual in my grandpas name.
     

    Attached Files:

    Dano likes this.
  10. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Manuals
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Nice! Good score on the corr support. Lots of guys looking for them. Figured no harm in asking on the drums. I converted my 1st Sportwagon ('69 400) to disk and the drums had never been cut. They wound up on my on '70 GS 350 4-sp & I'm looking for another nice pair for the current 350 4-sp project.
     
  12. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Very nice, I hope I can find a decent 3 or 4 speed Buick eventually. Messaged the guy about this one a couple hours from my house but it sold quick! Probably gonna get parted out... here’s the drums on the Sporty.
     

    Attached Files:

    Dano likes this.
  13. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    After putting the drums on the rear with the wheels, it was noticeable that the studs could be longer. For whatever reason if you order new studs, got mine from rock auto, they are about 3/8” or so longer than stock. Which is exactly what I needed for the studs to just poke out the end of the stock lug nuts. (Which are only temporary). I had no idea where the brake block holder was for this car, so I bought a new one online. Only to realize there are probably 3 or so rear ends out back... cleaned up the original rear lines and painted years ago. Took some convincing to get the fittings spinning again. Had been eyeing this hood online for a looooonng time. So finally pulled the trigger for about a 700 mile round trip. Meanwhile my dad went and picked up the grill assembly and bumper. Bumper is bubbly but might be the shiniest one I have for now. Need to keep going with brake and fuel lines.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Quick update, since last we put a b&m shift kit in the trans, finally got the arm off the steering box and opened it up to replace a few seals. Dad made fuel lines, and installed. Steering box installed. Brought the engine home to get freshened up. Still spins! Slacking on pictures this time, idk how some people do it, hard to take pictures with dirty greasy hands.
     

    Attached Files:

    Max Damage and Dano like this.
  15. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    The time has come to tackle the engine. My grandpa used to carry a log book in the car of every gas fill up and every bit of maintenance performed on the car. With that in mind my dad was shocked to see the inside of this engine. All the bolts came out nice and smooth. The first shock was seeing sludge under the valve covers. Then came under the valley pan with all the buildup between the rear cylinders. It appears that the head gaskets failed around the mirroring holes in the block. Leading to a large amount of buildup in the oil pan as well… cam and lifters were worn out. Timing gear lost all nylon and chain was barely hanging on. Rod bearings are all decent still and that’s where she sits. Have to check crank bearings and start cleaning and building. O, motor had 108k and can’t wait to add to the maintenance book.
     

    Attached Files:

    Max Damage likes this.
  16. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    More
     

    Attached Files:

  17. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Pistonless
     

    Attached Files:

    Dano likes this.
  18. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Rusty head gaskets
     

    Attached Files:

  19. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Haven’t updated in awhile. We’ve been slowly working on rebuilding the engine. After tear down we started on oil mods. Drilled out to 5/8 for the main pickup to pump. Did all the mains, front passages. Took the heads apart. Lots of washing. Quick hone. Decided to replace the cam bearings and turns out they were ready to disintegrate. Fresh freeze plugs.
     

    Attached Files:

    SpecialWagon65 likes this.
  20. 95CCRMW

    95CCRMW Well-Known Member

    Made sure to improve my rear main bearing groove. Pistons and crank are back in. When it came time to think about installing the cam, we were greeted with broken gear teeth that went unknown since acquisition. So we cleaned heads and valves while trying to make a cam decision. Ended up getting a TA 212. Happy to say it is installed.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page